Ok, not exactly a stovebolt but I figure this is the place to ask. Chevy with flickering high beams. I pinched the power wire putting the battery box in and found it after frying my switch. After fixing the wire and installing a new switch, the low beams work all day long but highs only last a minute before the breaker kicks in and out. I've crawled all over it and the only thing I can think of is the breaker in the new switch is weak. Has anyone else ran relays on their headlights? Any suggestions? P.s. been awhile since I've been on here so if this isn't the spot please move it. Thanks!
Welcome back JDL. When you say "switch", is it the High Beam Switch or the Light Switch?
Have you checked the hi beam switch? I've had issues where the high beams just shut off (while driving, at night). The high beam switch was my issue, but I didn't short anything out.
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The main light switch. I lose power out of it when the lights go out. I've checked the dimmer and every connection between the battery to the lights. Can't find anything out of the ordinary.
I had a similar problem with too much current through the main light switch, so I went to relays. I used a RL44 to turn the headlights on/off, and a RL45 to go from high beam to low beam. They are less than $10 each at FLAPS.
I mounted mine near the fuse box under the hood and still ran power from the relays, through fuses to the lights. It just requires some basic electrical knowledge and a little wiring modification. I wired mine so the floor dimmer switch works as designed.
I'm in the process of re-wiring my 1954 Chev 3100, and will be using relays for the high beams, low beams, LED lights, and horn. I gutted the old voltage regulator and mounted 3 relays inside it. (High Beam, Low Beam, Horn) Will need to find a place for after market LED driving lights relay.
Interestingly enough, when you install the relays, the electrical loss through the switch and high beam switch is eliminated and the lights run a bit brighter as a result.
