The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 not starting after head rebuilt

Drop me a PM- - - -I'll reply with my phone number. This has gone on far too long, and I think you're mere minutes away from getting that thing running!
Jerry

We’re almost there I think
Got better response to trying to start by switching spark plug wires and making sure seated all the way in the distributor cap
Now it’s almost coughing
Also got back fire when swapping the wires around so we have fuel and spark
Next will be check the valves again and new spark plugs
Thanks Jerry

Finally got it started
After replacing the distributor (Langdons) and new plugs started the first time around
Now to initially warm and re-torque the head bolts
I assume one bolt at a time; any sequence?

Head bolts torque, start on the center of the head and then alternate sides working from the center

Great to hear you got the engine running. People ask many questions, but few report back results...thanks for doing so as it helps others (including myself) learn. Did you install an original style points type distributor?

Hello all
Another set back....
So got it running good enough to warm the engine
After that, was going through the sequence of retightening the head bolts and the oil supply bolt snapped
Luckily I was able to take the broken end from the block, through the head with a screwdriver
Does anyone have a bolt to spare or source to buy? Chevs of the 40’s has bolts, but they do not have the hole, nor the stepped shoulder like the oems
Not sure if this is necessary bolt because it did not have the slit at the top and it’s a 1956 block with a 848 head; it looks like someone modified themselves. Before the head rebuild I had oil starvation problem to the rockers so I have a line from the oil sender port in the block to the head

Depends on the year of the head and block. There was more to it then just the bolt, there was a plug also. In 59, gm changed the oiling system slightly from the 55-58 motors. Service replacement blocks for 55-58 motors eventually changed over to 59-62. So if you had a bad block on a 55-58, the service replacement was the 59-62 type. In order to use the later block with the earlier head and rockers, you installed a tapered plug and the drilled bolt. Was not needed if replacing a late block with a late block, and using the later head.

So you want to see what year block and head you have on your hands there.

Drag six
C 11 8
C 11 8 = March 11 1958

k216
K 21 6 = November 21 1956

Any head bolt the right length can be converted to an oiler bolt. Just grind a thin slot into the threads about 1/16" wide and slightly deeper than the minor diameter of the thread root. The other method is to drill a small hole dead center into the threaded area of the bolt and drill a hole sideways to intersect with it. You don't need a very big hole- - - -slightly over 1/16" should be plenty, and if it's done correctly the strength of the bolt isn't compromised.
Jerry

To add on to HRM's suggestion, the link should be helpful:
Good Info

So with a 58 and 56 head and block combination, the bolt and plug is not used (and was never installed from the factory, btw.) That may be part of the oiling issue if your motor did have the bolt and plug installed. Here is the rub as I see it. If your motor had the bolt, does it also have the plug installed in the block? I don't know that it matters at this point any how as you have provided the rockers with oil from a secondary source so you likely only need a standard head bolt and I myself would not drill it (given that you don't need it).

I did not see a plug when i had the head off
So to confirm, non-drilled bolt will work and i will still get oil to the rockers? It looks like that's where the oil is being supplied though
Oiler

If your casting dates are correct, then no you do not need the drilled bolt and plug. Remember, that bolt was only used when you were replacing a 55-58 engine (short block) with a 59 and up service replacement (short block fitted block), but were still using the 55-58 head and rockers. If you were doing that, you installed the plug in the block which stopped the oil from the standard pathway to the rockers, installed the early head and rockers, and used the drilled bolt which was an alternate pathway to the rockers- with the drilled part of the bolt providing the restriction for the oil so the oil dribbled out of the early style rockers (oil groove inside the rocker arm intersecting the dribble hole, as opposed to the later 59 and up rocker arms where the groove is offset from the dribble hole) as opposed to spitting over them. These drilled bolts were not installed in any production motor whatsoever. I have an nos bolt and probably 7 or 8 nos little plugs. I keep them around for conversation sake.

The following 47-55 rocker-arm-assembly links/information might help, but might also serve to confuse (sorry):

Bottom-half of this page for drilled-bolt explanation and photos.

Different rocker-arm oiler styles.

Has anyone used standard grade 8 bolts to replace these? I can only find Chevs of the forties that carries these, but it's $15+ just for shipping 1-2 bolts

McMaster or Fastenal has these but, they do not have stepped shoulder like the OEM's

Bolt

What length of bolt do you need? Send me a PM with your mailing address and a measurement from the bottom of the bolt head to the end of the thread. I've got a couple of junk engines and I'll be glad to send you a head bolt.
Jerry