Decided to try and stop the oil leaking from around the 216 valve cover, so I was looking for a new gasket on eBay. Found a 100% silicone model without holes, but at $32 I think it’s a bit pricey. Has anyone had any experience with one of these silicone gaskets? I guess if they work really well they’re worth the price?
Thanks
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
I have never used a preformed silicone gasket, but I would guess that you could just buy a tube of high temp silicone and just use that for your gasket. It is a little messy, but works good; especially if you have some uneveness in the head or valve cover.
Those preformed Silicone VC gaskets are worth it, but hard to find. They are impervious to oil and reusable where the cork is permeable and will always weep and takes a set after a short time. The form-a-gasket is as Lee posted, a mess to use and you always take a chance a dingle berry could break loose inside and plug up something unless you are very careful. dg
And, while they hold really well, they very difficult to remove if both surfaces are covered, best to only coat the 'tin, uneven surface and let the cork rest on the machines, flat surface.
Silicone gasket would be great.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Yes, that’s the company....... Real Gaskets located in Tennessee. On eBay they charge a high shipping fee, so the total comes up to about $32 per gasket. Jerry, if you say they are worth it because they work really well, I’m probably going to take back the cork gasket I bought at NAPA Sunday and will order the 100% silicone gasket off eBay. Thanks for everyone’s comments!
FYI..... it’s cheaper to buy this gasket through eBay than from their website. Probably true of all their gaskets.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Their web site shows the same side cover gasket fitting every Chevy six from 1930-1962 and that's simply not true.
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[quote=tclederman]Not every Chevy six from 30-63 (but, they are most likely wrong about fitting all from 1937-63) - and, they exclude 1954-1956 261s?
I do not have a 2-bolt valve cover on-hand - are the 2-bolt and 4-screw covers' bottom/base size similar enough allow one size/shape to fit all?[/quote//]
Yes the cork gaskets are the same dimensions and interchangeable. I generally cut off the 2 outer bolt extrusions (manifold side) when I use the 4 bolt 235 gasket for my 2 bolt 216. This is to allow the valve cover to sit properly on the gasket on that side.
I have that Real Gasket VC gasket for my replacement rebuilt 235 that is awaiting install in my 49 Chevy. It didn't leak during breakin but can't report on it's long term durability at this time as the 216 is still humming right along.....
I referring to the side cover Tim, not the valve cover. The 216 is twice the size as the 235. One will not fit the other.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
Since I seldom, if ever have a problem with the regular cork gaskets sealing if the surfaces are clean and the tin is straight, I don't use fancy synthetic gaskets. "Your mileage may vary!" Most of the exotic gaskets seem to be a lazy man's substitute for proper cleanup and metal straightening. Jerry
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I decided to take Hotrod Lincoln‘s advice and stay with a cork gasket. Having decided that, I wondered if my leak was due to an old, faulty gasket, or uneven edges on my valve cover? Decided to go through the process of elimination, so I started by wiping off all the oil and some debris off of the original gasket, straightened it out as best I could, and left it in place. Next, I retrieved an NOS 216 valve cover I bought years ago at a swap meet. Upon examination, the edges looked near perfect, so I installed it on top of the old gasket. Tightened the 2 acorn nuts finger tight and then about 2 more turns with the wrench. That was over a week ago, and after putting about 50 miles on the truck since then there have been no noticeable leaks. I’ve determined that the problem must have been uneven edges on the original valve cover. I’ll update again if over time it begins to leak again.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
I used the silicone gasket on my 216 valve cover. I also cleaned the both surfaces until there was zero oil residue. By itself the gasket is too hard for the two acorn nuts to get enough seal all the way around. In the past the leaks I had were on the corners/ ends. What an utterly stupid design this cover is. So along with the silicone gasket I used “Right stuff” Permitex on the entire bottom side of the gasket. It’s a wider gasket than the cork so it has a better chance of sealing. On the top side of the gasket I used Right Stuff only on both ends. Not enough that would squeeze past the width of the silicone gasket. There is no drying time with this product so I started the motor and let it heat up before giving the nuts their last turn. No leaks in several months driving 4 to 5 days a week.
Months before this I used RightStuff on my cork gasket on the oil pan. Block side only, good amount in the corners. No leaks yet.
At the time I did the valve cover I also did the HUGE side cover. I used a very thin amount except the two bottom corners both sides. I also used two styles of “clips” made for adding pressure on valve covers. No leaks.
Don
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.