The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk How to get this pin out of emergency brake linkage!

In the final stages of the cab tear down and trying to remove the emergency brake pedal. I cannot get this pin out of the emergency brake linkage and wondering if there a trick that I am missing? It just had a cotter pin in it and should tap out right? I have tried PB blaster, heat, etc. this thing is not budging! Luckily the floorboard in that area was already like swiss cheese so I have cut some access holes. Any help/tips/ideas would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to have to cut the pedal or the linkage if possible.

Emergency brake pin

On another side note, I also just noticed my replacement floor board panel does not have the pockets for the seals that go around the pedal shafts and the gas pedal brackets. Any ideas on how to remove/reuse those would be greatly appreciated also.

I would try pressing it out with a clamp and bolt.

Try applying heat and use vice grips on the head of the pin to help getting it to budge. The pin is steel and the pin is cast. They react differently when heated. This should help separate them enough for penetrating oil to work better.

On the pockets, cut them off the existing panel, use a grinder to carefully remove the old floor and weld them on the new. That is why I have saved all these, it works pretty well as they are not reproduced.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8687676866/in/album-72157631868452754/
Trim to fit from here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/43875862061/in/album-72157631868452754/

Well that is a bunch of work I wasn't planning on!

Thanks. That actually gave me a an idea I will try tonight (hopefully) using a socket and needle nose vice grips + heat to try to press it out. There is just not enough room side to side to get a C clamp in there. Can't believe how much time this stupid pin has/is costing me!

Been there, done that. Probably got burned, cut, mashed a finger, pinched the web between the thumb and forefinger between the handles of the needle nose pliers as they locked up, leaving me there with no friends to help me. Bright side is, I was too crippled up to throw any tools at valuable parts and equipment. But I did get it out.

The vice grips didn't help me either. I've tried heat, soaking in PB blaster for a few days, even cut the floor out big enough to get a C clamp in there and this thing is not budging!

Bent C clamp

Back to the drawing board....

You could try heat again and then spray WD40 gingerly on it to cool it and that "can" draw some of the oil into the pin. BE ADVISED that WD40 is FLAMMABLE. Have a hose or fire extinguisher handy. Sometimes these things need any and all persuasion you can throw at it.

you could also try heat on the outside area of where the pin goes in and then try and sprinkle a bit of water on the pin itself to keep it cooler as the outer area expands. This is a small area you are trying to get at and this may not be practical but give it a shot.

Good luck

First, GREAT photo work. This rod runs from that pin back to the bell crank that runs across the frame rails behind the cab and it is nothing special so cut the sucker. After the assembly is out use a socket (or pipe if your picky about your tools) that will just fit over the head of the pin, set socket on solid surface, and the use TWO hammers to drive the pin out. First hammer (ball peen) is held flat side on the pin and second hammer strikes first one---no mush rooming of pin end this way. Weld rod back together or make a new one. With a rod under tension, like this one, the weld doesn't have to be super; not so with one under compression. Here is a view of the rod from the other end and it is nothing special. This one has been cut and threaded for an S10 cable equalizer but the front portion is factory just like yours. Texas truck is slightly less rusty than yours.

[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/bkdn60zkn/S10_049.jpg[/img]

That photo looks VERY familiar.

I recently removed the parking brake assembly myself, but the clevis pin you're having trouble with wasn't rusted in place. Managed to tap it out. The cotter pins on the end of the pedal shaft however were a different story. Wound up drilling them out once I had the assembly out of the truck.

The suggestion of trying more heat is a good one. You can get the sucker red hot if needed.

You could also just cut the clevis to get the assembly out and work on the pin later. Clevises, pins and rods are replaceable, and they may be unusable anyway. The rod is just round stock with threaded ends and easy to make with round stock from the hardware store. I wouldn't try welding it back together if you cut it. Clevises are available from McMaster Carr and other places. Sometimes it's better to just sacrifice a few parts to the rust gods.

3.5 nights of cursing heating, pounding prying this little pain in the rear is finally out! After no go on pressing it out I kept heating it up to orange, spraying with pb blaster, repeat until I could get it to turn ever so slightly with vice grips on the end of the shaft where the cotter pin went through it. Still unable to press it out I cut the head off and was able to drive it through.

Victory!