The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Carb Replacement '56 Chevy 3100

Hello all,

I'm VERY new to the Stovebolt world. I just acquired a 2-owner, Utah driven '56 3100 with a 235 I6. It needs some love here and there, but once it's started it runs like a champ. The kicker is it takes some serious massaging to get it started. It takes 10-15 minutes to get it going when it's cold.

The fuel pump appears to be working properly, so I believe the issue is the carb. It has some serious leaks. From what I've read so far, the factory Rochester carbs are problematic and unreliable. Plus, the current carb has some rust on it so I'd like to replace it. I'm a mechanical guy, but I have no significant experience working on classic cars so I'm looking for a good, drop-in solution. Any recommendations? So far the Carter YF seems to be the easiest, most reliable fit from what I can find, but I'd love to hear any other options.

Thank you!

Just to reiterate, the factory 1 bbl Rochester carbs are not problematic in any way shape or form. In good repair they are a workhorse carb that was installed on millions and millions of trucks and cars and were as reliable as all get out. The problem with them today is that they are old, most have been rebuilt who knows how many times by how many people with who knows what skill or knowledge. It use to be that you could get some decent carb cleaner, a good kit and give it a rebuild. But after 60 plus years, I think, and this is just my opinion, that you are heads and hands ahead by having a real professional rebuild the carb. The professionals have so much more available to them then we hobby backyard home driveway guys. Ultrasonic baths, tumblers, throttle bushings, new screws and proper staking equipment for the throttle blade, ability to face the surfaces flat, proper tools to get the check ball seats correct, those little lead and aluminum plugs to get into all the channels and chambers, chromate baths, wet and dry flow benches and all the proper tools to make the bench adjustments. I read more posts by more people complaining that their home rebuilt carb is not working properly, and then claiming that its the design of the Rochester that is poor and unreliable. Save yourself a lot of aggravation here and send that carb to someone good and have it rebuilt correctly. It will run like a champ if you do.

Walk out to the truck tomorrow - dead cold. Open the hood, remove the filter. Pull & release the throttle linkage once.
What does the choke blade do?

Question #1- - - -manual or automatic choke?

If it's a manual, are you using full choke on a cold engine? If so, there should be no need to massage the gas pedal- - - - -pull the choke out all the way and crank the starter until the engine fires. If you have to crank for over 10 seconds, fix the fuel pump, the ignition, or both. Once the engine fires and runs, push the choke knob in about halfway or a little less to prevent flooding.

Automatic choke- - - -tap the gas pedal one time and crank. 10-15 seconds of cranking time max. The automatic fast idle cam will kick in and allow the engine to warm up at an increased idle speed. A properly set automatic choke is smarter than all drivers and most mechanics.
Jerry

I put this one on my 235 and it runs pretty good.
http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/online-catalog/#!/Manual-Choke-32-36-Carburetor/p/15456407/category=18665948

Hey guys...

Thanks so much for incredible input. Much appreciated. You guys are awesome.

I removed the Rochester carb and discovered two hairline cracks in the casing. I purchased a fully rebuilt Carter YF from a reputable shop not to far from me. I cleaned up the throttle, replaced all the seals, and installed it. Once the bowl filled, it fired right up. No leaks and it runs smoother than it did previously. So far, so good. It was a manual choke, BTW.