The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay how toos got me

Ok so I, new to all of this ,anyway I have a1941 3/4 ton chevy pickup, that we,ve been working on for several months now.
using the info gathered here I been able to change the third member redo master and brake cylinders,and in general get our truck in some sort of working order . thanks two the info we have received or been able to read here,we decided to try and leave the truck with the six volt system for now.
there the rub ,knowing just enough about electricity to assist an electrician does not make you one. many of my decisions have come from being the type who will take info and run with it,but many car and truck people tell me to skip the head ache and go directly to 12 volt system.
while this sounds all well and good our goal was to try to go ole skool original for 1 year before deciding the make any major changes next winter, like I have said,I know little of resistors and relays and with a complete diagram I am going at this in the dark.So I guess my real questions is do I go painless (to 12 volt plug and go) or can I find writings and diagrams to decifer this wiring job and keep six volt and declare it true ole skool

Fred Jones Jr,

Ultimately, it is up to you. After all, it is your truck. I have a 6 volt system in my 53 3100. The 6 volt system hasn't given me any trouble. Just a couple of pieces of advice that I can share with you. Make sure that you use a heavy enough gauge wire. Also, make sure that anywhere that calls for a ground, has a nice clean surface. No paint, no grease, no rust. Just good old bare metal. I believe that it was Jerry "Hotrod Lincoln", that also recommends using a welding cable for your positive battery cable. He knows his stuff. I would listen to him. There a lot of bolters on here that know far more than I. They may chime in with more advice. But until then, I hope this will help you get started. Good luck with your restoration.

Rugo

Rugo/HrL suggest a welding cable because they might be easier to obtain (you will need correct ends).

Use gauge 00 to gauge 2 battery-connection cables AND all ground cables/straps (all positive/negative cable/strap connectors/cables).
I use 00 gauge on all my 6v trucks - never had/have a starting problem.

Clean all contact/attachment points until they are shiny metal.
Coat with an anti-oxidant grease (NOT a dielectric grease)
Use a copper-impregnated grease, available in small tubes/jars in all auto parts stores).

Your 6v truck/engine will spin/start very nicely, if properly tuned.

Do not consider going to an 8v (tractor) battery.

Just use a auto parts store battery cables of the correct length and has the correct ends.
Wiring a truck: There is no plug and go harness. But, yes, buy a harness. You will have to know a little about what you are doing. Do not be intimidated by truck wiring. It is not as critical or complicated as home wiring. The 1941 original wiring has almost no fuses and is primitive by todays standards. You will be updating to fuses for everything, new wire and a new philosophy and style.

Here are the basics to remember: (not everything is covered below, just an overview)

1. Battery power goes from the battery positive post to the starter using a big cable. Battery negative cable goes from negative post to a motor bolt or starter bolt. Braided ground cable attach motor to body and body to frame.
2. The rest of the main power goes from the positive post of the battery in smaller wires. 12Ga usually. The general feed wiring is 14 or 16 ga.
3. You do need a wiring diagram to follow. Every line on the diagram is a hot wire. ***
4. The basic power for components, using a new harness with a prewired fuse box, is supplied by direct fused wires and wires from the fuse box fuses. The fuse box and it's fuses are turned on by the ignition.
5. The "direct fused" wires have a fusible link at the battery end and go to the ignition switch and the headlight switch. Google and study fusible link and size selection.
6. Break it down to: gauges, ignition switch and lights (which may include a dimmer switch, brake switch and turn signals). You may have a heater motor, horn and radio.
7. Everything has a switch.
8. Some components are only on when the ignition switch is on and some are "on" all the time.
9. Power runs to a light, a motor, a gauge and returns thru the body/chassis/frame metal. Not a wire. Sometimes the hot wire is "interrupted" by a switch. The power simply goes in one side of the switch and out the other and on to the component, light, gauge, etc.

*** Just keep this all in mind when reading the diagram. In the diagram, when you see a wire ending in a triangle shape, it means ground. It means the body/chassis/frame metal is physically touching the "housing" or "bracket" of the components by being attached with a screw or bolt or tight fit. As mentioned, this grounding method on an old rusty truck causes many problems. You can see and check the power wires. The "return" thru all the metal and ground straps is very hard to troubleshoot.

If I was going to rewire an old truck, I would convert to 12V. No reason to go nostalgic on that. No one cares. I don't know if the harnesses are sold with 6V in mind. They are 12V harness. Wire may not be big enough. You may be saying you are leaving the old wiring in place till next year. Up to you.

There are not that many wires in your truck. It's not overwhelming and it's easy. Plan the wire routing, dressing, tie wrapping and clamping as you layout and mock it up. Find a nice place to mount the fuse box either upper left of your left foot or under seat.

None of my comments or suggestions are related to the charging system.

"Just use a auto parts store battery cables of the correct length and has the correct ends."

With a gauge appropriate for a 6v system - if you have a 6v system.
12v 4-gauge (and above - higher numbers) is "weak" for a 6v starting system.

Good point Tim. Flaps cable is usually 4 ga, which is good for 70-80 A, 2 ga is good for 90-100 A.

This may be of interest to someone: He makes any length you want at good prices and free ship. Probably any terminal ends you want also. I don't know him or have ever used him. Just a thought. His feedback score is good.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-2ga-Custom-Made-Positive-Battery-Cable-35-/320439674096

thanks for the quick and insightful info, the ole wrench turners of vintage rides have spoken to me too just give in and go 12 volt as it was a future plan any way. So as my quest continues like my woodworking continues to teach patience and thoughtfulness is most often the best path to take. The so while collecting the materials we do not have we will return out thoughts to covering our set aside head liner. I am not very good at conversation, but when inspired I 'm like the bulldog chasing that hambone .

The equipment and supplies to build your own custom battery cables is available on Ebay, and for the cost of just a few good quality cables you can recoup your cost and make a few bucks on the side when somebody at a car show asks "Where did you get those nice cables?" All it takes is a hammer-operated crimping tool, a BFH, some bulk cable and the correct end terminals. I don't remember exactly what getting set up with all that cost, but good store-bought cables capable of cranking a 6 volt system efficiently ain't cheap! You can also custom-tailor cable length to your specific project needs.
Jerry