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| | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,188 Insomniac | | Insomniac Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,188 | Not a propeller; a rod to hold the hood up. I have been frustrated trying to get my hood to fit. I have been following the tech tip on how to do it. So I finally got it fitting OK at the cowl. I attached the springs and now I have a big gap at the cowl.  It seems that there is too much play in the hinges. So I have to get replacement hinges and restart the fight or forget about the springs and just prop the hood up like the foreigners do. (I think they are on to something) Question: anybody have success deleting the springs and using a prop instead? Yes, I can make one out of a hunk of 2x4, but I'm thinking of a metal rod that fits under the hood and can be swung into place. Thanks.
Gord 🇨🇦
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1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 | Did you have an assistant apply downward pressure on the back of the hood while there was a 4 inch block of wood under the nose of the hood while you tightened the four hood spring bolts from the inside of the cab? This procedure is said to account for any play in the hinge rivets according to the Manual.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,188 Insomniac | | Insomniac Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,188 | Yes, I used the block. Put a piece of carpet underlay over the hood and put lots of weight on it to push the hood down on to the cowl seal. After tightening the bolts, I lifted the hood, removed the block and after dropping the hood to the closed position, the gap on the driver's side went from about 1/4 inch to over 3/4 inch; enough that you can see the seal showing. Pass side was OK.
Gord 🇨🇦
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1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 772 Former BMW Rider | | Former BMW Rider Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 772 | Here's a Tech Tip on the subject. Different hood/year, same idea....... Hood Prop | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 | Yes, I used the block. Put a piece of carpet underlay over the hood and put lots of weight on it to push the hood down on to the cowl seal. After tightening the bolts, I lifted the hood, removed the block and after dropping the hood to the closed position, the gap on the driver's side went from about 1/4 inch to over 3/4 inch; enough that you can see the seal showing. Pass side was OK. Did you do this procedure with the springs disconnected?
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,188 Insomniac | | Insomniac Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,188 | Carl: Yes, I tried it both with the springs connected and w/o the springs. No luck. I think there is too much play in the hinges. I can get new hinges from Chevs of the 40's, but it will cost me over $200 by the time I pay postage, exchange and taxes. So I'm thinking of a prop. I followed this tech tip: Hood Tech TipAndy: Nice tech tip. That's probably the most professional looking tech tip I've seen.
Last edited by Gord&Fran; 07/09/2018 12:31 AM.
Gord 🇨🇦
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1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,249 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,249 | Always adjust with springs disconnected. Hinges can be had from Classic Parts for $40 per side. | | |
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