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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 250
E
'Bolter
'Bolter
E Offline
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 250
A while back I pulled the under bed gas tank out of my '48 Chevy 1 ton dually with military pick up bed for cleaning and sending unit replacement.

The sending unit for the gauge looked like it could be original but upon removal showed to be non-functional because rust had frozen the moving parts. The sending unit is a Delco part and has the rheostat on the top of the unit where it sits outside of the fuel in the tank. A rod runs down to a gear that moves when the float--made of cork!--moves up or down. This is very different from the universal replacement part where everything sits inside the tank and the float is made, not surprisingly, of plastic.

Upon examining the new part it was obvious that it wasn't going to work because the float arm was clocked 90* from where it should be, with no way to modify the orientation. I had purchased it before starting the job from an eBay supplier who assured me it was the proper one for my application. As it turns out the unit is too deep and even if I would have bent the shaft 90* to fit my tank, the geometry wasn't going to allow the float to move enough to give useful readings.

I'm strictly a backyard mechanic and I often find myself puzzling through a repair, often resorting to modifying new replacement parts that just don't seem to fit correctly. In this case I was out of luck and figured I'd have to find another replacement part that would work.

Not wanting to spend even more money I took another look at the old part and thought I might as well try to get it unstuck. Liberal application of Sea Foam Deep Creep and 12 hours of waiting and the darned thing freed up! I cleaned everything as well as I could and when I ohm tested it it works fine! It's going back in over the weekend and I hope to have a functional fuel gauge for the first time in years.

I love it when old parts still work!

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Congratulations, maybe the cork will last another 70+ years.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,078
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,078
Originally Posted by tclederman
Congratulations, maybe the cork will last another 70+ years.
Cork should do fine. I remember having a carb float that was a hollow metal affair going bad. When I explained the symptoms to another guy, he said "AH, the old sinking float problem." grin


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jun 2011
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Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
Floats can often be saved by coating with epoxy thinned with acetone(don't get it too heavy) .

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,215
Leo Offline
Moderator
Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
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I have a cork float too. Others said it would absorb gas over time and sink. Not true, it still floats, never coated with anything.

Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 250
E
'Bolter
'Bolter
E Offline
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 250
Quick Update: The sender is installed in the tank, the tank installed under the truck, the cork float floats and the gauge works for the first time in years!


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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