The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1951 3600 front spindles

[b][/b]o.k. I have never had any vehicle down to frame..not a mechanic ...but not afraid to attack with guidance...my issue..i have remove everything on passenger side including backing plate..drivers backing plate not coming because of where inner bearings ride on not sliding off spindle like other side..cant post pic yet forgive my lack of knowledge on name of parts..i don't want to use heat on them or my king pins..ive been using penetrating oil on everything I see for Last three years and mostly paid off. So I also have removed the stop brackets and nuts off king pins and i put nut back on and hit it hoping to loosen rust weld on lock pin. She's on stands and id like to know the the best way to remove the tapered "cup" off spindle without destroying anything and and how to remove them lock pins...i should not use heat right? Also I read article on king pin replacement...says caps must be removed after taking locking clips off the top..i seen nothing on top of or bottom of my king pins it just looks like one solid pin? Knowing how hard some parts are to get im afraid of destroying anything..and to my non mechanic eye the spindle have some nicks but what would I see to make the spindle not useable...am i just paying attention to where inner outer bearings ride? Thanks on any help on how to attack without damaging..

The top of king pin should have a round plug to keep grease in, a sharp punch can be used to persuade that plug out. I think heat would be the way to go on the lock pin, hard to get that out without destroying the pin.

Best of luck
Jim
(SSBN 602 boat)

A shop manual for your particular model will be of great help with all your truck projects. They are available online. Show up regularly on evilbay. You can and will get answers here but having the manual to look at while reading our replies will make it all crystal clear. Hang on help is on the way.🛠

Thanks to all ...i agree I need to purchase the manual I've visited the online manual but having the book by me while wrenching would be an asset.

Thanks for the reply Shop shark . You were on the the original "Boomers" as I was ssbn728 and ssbn729...heading out to wrench now..would it be easier to do king pins while axels and springs on or since I have to replace springs just drop axel and have them pressed out?

Yeah, I'd do king pins with axle in place. Also check springs bushings shackles etc for wear. Both my trucks needed everything replaced. Believe all those truck has fitted bushings so king pins should just about fall out once the locking pins are out.

In my experience kingpins rarely just “fall out” after removing lock pin, usually involves a big hammer or hydraulic press. If it was a new axle or freshly rebuilt sure, they’d be easy to tap out or possibly push out with a thumb.

If you plan to remove the axle, do so, then do kingpins and bushings, easier off the truck I think. Though not necessary to remove if you don’t have plans otherwise to pull the axle, or if the pins come out easy.
Could start disassembly on the truck but if pins are real tight don’t get carried away with the big hammer and bend the axle, stop and use a press. Usually take the axle to the hydraulic press, though portable kingpin presses do exist.

Thanks grigg. The frame is on jacks and since I'm replacing springs it was an easy call. I put a floor jack under straight axel then cut u bolts and lower it out. I ordered new kingpins set and will take it to a press to have them done. Also ordered my leafs and everything to throw front end together . Also have another extra front used 8 lug drum coming...now just gotta get drum drum master with a booster and lines ordered. I'm Making progress...