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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 1 Moderated | | Moderated Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 1 | Wondering what the best way to secure the cowl vent gasket on a 1954 Chevy 3100? Silicone??? | | | | | Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 106 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 106 | A rubber seal is sold. If you're trying to permanently secure it they sell a weld on patch panel.
"I always win." Working mainly alone I do not let my trucks win a war. Maybe a battle here and there but never the war.
Robert
55.1 GMC 450 COE
51ish GMC Suburban
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Not sure about a 54 but some earlier years you will find vendors with "original Cork" and also solid rubber.
I used a solid rubber on my 37 for a while but it would never "seat" or "seal" tight on the hard rubber and I usually had a leak.
I changed to the cork seal and used 3m adhesive and have not had a problem in years! Just my experience. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,516 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,516 | 3-M weatherstrip adhesive. Make sure you follow the directions.
on the tube | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | I did something different altogether.
I bought the soft foam style cowl seal and glued it to the bottom of the vent door, just inside the lip instead of the cowl. The lip on the cowl engages the foam seal more securely than how the bottom edge of the vent door engages the seal. I did have to cut the foam seal and glue the ends back together so it will fit inside of the lip under the vent door. That foam is easy enough to glue with weatherstrip adhesive. No leaks, even when sprayed with hose.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 199 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 199 | So is recommendation to go on the vent side rather than the cab side? I bought both seals for my 47’s vents and want to locate them correctly. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | I seal that rubber seal on the body/cab side of the seal.
Chevy Duty/Classic Parts (many years ago) and Jim Carter (many years ago) and Steele (more recently installed).
No leaks over many year and many storms (if I close the scoop/vent). | | | | | Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 199 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 199 | I was thinking the same as they aren’t out “in the wind” | | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,518 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,518 | Dont use silicone on the truck, it will return a favor if you ever decide to do any paint work in the future.
1953 Chevrolet 3100261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY GalleryVideo of the 261 running1964 GMC 1000305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | e So is recommendation to go on the vent side rather than the cab side? I bought both seals for my 47’s vents and want to locate them correctly. I have had so much bad luck with the extremely hard rubber seals from the vendors, that I went outside the box to solve the problem. It may not pass a 100 point Originality Test, But you would be hard pressed to notice the difference in appearance. You will definitely notice a dry floor inside the cab after a downfall.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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