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I have a 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup. We found a chasis that already has a newer differential currently mounted. Right now, the body of the truck is totally removed from the chassis and are in the process of assembly.

I want to place a 350 with a 350 or 700 auto tranny in the truck. To do so, I plan to mount the cab and then attach the tranny to the engine and hoist it into place using the hoist coupled with a transmission jack to position the engine assembly in place so that I can figure out where to put the engine cross member support and the transmission cross member support.

What do I need to consider? Is this a good approach? I understand that the alignment of the transmission yoke with respect to the differential yoke should be within 3 degrees in both axses?

I assume I need to place the engine as close to the cab as possible?

Your insight would be very much appreciated.

Works for me. Be sure and have the dist and cap on. Especially if it's a HEI. Someone sells plastic mockup engine and trans for doing just what you are. A bit pricy unless you'll be doing a lot of them.

Place a level on the intake manifold where the carb sits. The level should be zero, this will give you a about 3-4 degrees downward tilt of the tailshaft on the trans. If you look at the carb base on a Chevy intake, it is not level to the valve covers. If the carb is not level you will have floar problems. MAke sure the difference between the centerline of the diff and output on the trans is as close as possibe 3 degrees is ok, but 1/2 to 1 degree is better. If the difference is to great, you will get Ujoint binding and wear.

Besides watching the Dist clearance, watch your fan to radiator as well. If you plan to run headers, make sure that you clear the steering box.

You need to give a little more info than you have. Are you tring to use the stock frontend?? Is the truck lowered?? 3degrees wont hurt a thing with a leaf spring truck.It is better to have a little more than have the pinion at 0 or up. Is the bed on the truck?? Do you know the rear is mounted correctly?most are not thats why the owner loses interest and gives it away. You need to put the cab and bed on the truck.Check the wheel base(make sure the rear wheels are centered cause they are NOT stock and look pretty stupid) and decide how high /low the motor will go in the chassis.Along with master cyl location, exh,and crossmember issuies. Got lot of pix but cant post them anymore .So.......... go look at one thats done. If your using a stock frontend you have a bunch other problems anyway.

I do have a stock front end with mods. It has disc brakes and rack and pinion steering from a Mustang II. I will check the rear end to see if it is mounted correctly. I can check to see of the rear end is centered but as to up and down angle I guess I need to wait to mount the engine and cab? Seems its putting the cart before the horse.

If you have a mustangII rack and pinion on a straight axle ........your in trouble anyway.No way no how no matter what anybody says .............it cant be done safely. Yep i have seen a few done ,but the guys that did it should be taken behind the barn and shot. You cant mount a rack to the frame of the truck with out big bump steer problem.You also cant mount the rack to the axle with out using a flexable or slider steering shaft ,both of which are very dangerous . As far as the other stuff .The rear needs to mounted first (with a bed on it so you know if the wheels sit in the fender wheels correctly,THEY DONT stock) i recommend just tacking or holding it in with the perches and u-bolts NOT welded till you finish the engine swap.After all the weight is in the truck(ie completely built) you just twist the rear to get your pinion angle and weld the perches.It can be done in the truck.Perches DO NOT need to be welded like it was dump truck trailer hitch.Just a few short welds is all thats need or you will warp the housing. If you heat a spot on a rearend housing red the size of a dime it can pull the axle out of alignment up to 1/4 of and inch.(fix em all the time) We even use a jig to weld perches on now.But i am sure you are not going to build or buy a 4-500 dollar jig. I hope you wrote wrong about the rack on a straight axle.????