There are cork rings that seal the cover around the spark plugs. It's a good idea to use an adhesive like 3M trim cement to glue them to the sheet metal cover. Ditto for the perimeter gasket- - - -glue it to the cover to keep it from slipping out of place while you get a few bolts started. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Don, I haven't had a 216 since around 1976 and can't recall how it went on, but on the 235s I've learned the side cover can leak right at the back lower corner. This leak isn't good at all because it runs down the side of the block and mimics a rear seal leak. If you're trying to keep everything 100% original, then this won't be of interest, but I can promise it will help things if functionality is your goal: attach the gasket to the cover using a sealer that won't leak no matter what. I like the black silicone extreme stuff. I think if Noah had that, he could still be floating around somewhere. Then using a piece of aluminum 3/4" wide and at least 1/16" thick cut to length and round the corners, mark and drill holes to match the lower holes on the cover and use this piece to keep your cover nice and flat with pressure spread evenly. You may need 1/4 longer bolts or you may not. I do pretty much the same thing on the valve cover and it stops leaks there. On the valve cover, I use thicker aluminum, arch the pieces at the bolt hole and use longer bolts. The way these engines sit (at such an exaggerated angle) oil runs right down to the corner of that side plate and just sits there with no place to go. I have thought about drilling a drain hole, but I have hydraulic lifters and fear I'd hit the oil galley. Good luck. Jon
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
The oldtimers used Indian Head gasket shellac to stick 'em on, but that stuff probably got boycotted by the snowflake brigade a long time ago! LOL! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I have no idea what the snowflake brigade is, either, but I can tell you Indian Head Gasket Shellac isn't what I remember using. I tried some 2 years ago and ended up discarding it. Jon
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
I don't think your block should get to 350, but my experience with Indian Head was that it would run out of any joint freely at about 175 degrees. Then the joint would start leaking. Jon
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Yep, it was pretty lame stuff, even 50 years ago. I've always liked Permatex Super 300 for gaskets I might have to remove again during my lifetime. 3M trim cement sticks better, but it's a bear to remove if you ever have to take things apart again! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Another trick to keep gaskets in place is to use sewing thread to tie them at the bolt holes. When the bolts are threaded on the sewing thread can be removed by cutting or just pulling on it.
Well I stuck the gasket to the cover with RightSuff. Then used just a little at the bottom corners on the block. I picked up two sets of those clips made for valve covers and used the large set across the bottom and the small set on the rest. I purchased a SS kit and blue thread lock. I feel this I the best I could do and think it will hold longer. Too bad they don’t make one out of billet aluminum.
Thanks Don
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
The best plan for this cover, as well as the valve cover and the oil pan, is to become skilled at tinsmith work. This in best accomplished with the block on an engine stand. Place the tin on the bare block and tweak it until there are no gaps which a feeler gauge will pass through. The bolt holes are the biggest issue. They need to be mashed flat. Carl
Last edited by 52Carl; 06/02/20185:21 PM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
The best plan for this cover, as well as the valve cover and the oil pan, is to become skilled at tinsmith work. This in best accomplished with the block on an engine stand. Place the tin on the bare block and tweak it until there are no gaps which a feeler gauge will pass through. The bolt holes are the biggest issue. They need to be mashed flat. Carl
This is a 216 valve cover. There are no bolt holes except the top. I would have to say this has to be the worst designed piece of tin ever put on a motor. On the side cover I did make sure it was dead flat. Those bolt holes did need flattening. Side cover so far is not leaking.
I had great luck with the valve cover the first time I sealed it. This time I used a silicone gasket thinking I would be able to remove it easier. Going to have to make a second attempt at getting this one to seal.
Don
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
