Good folks, I've been reading threads and getting bits of info on this but my mechanic pulled out this line not knowing what it was doing until now. My pics are attached. I can't get the top line to screw back in and don't know if it's broke inside. There is resistance to move the pipe back into the block. I thought I read once this comes out a new one must be installed. Can that be accurate? If so is this a c-rated garage-mechanic install or rather difficult? Any other helpful thoughts? Some links that discuss it more- http://devestechnet.com/Home/ValveOiler http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0638.htm Looks like this would be the replacement http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=MEO199&i=19718||||| Thanks.
You don't mention the year of 216. From your pics I see it's later than mine. Through '39 the distributor valve was outside the block. Below is an image showing the basic routing. You must have a line in place to oil your rockers.
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Once the line that goes through the water jacket at an angle is removed, it cannot be reinstalled. If you attempt to reuse it there is almost a certainty of a coolant leak into the oil pan and contaminated oil that's almost impossible to clean up without a complete engine teardown. Use a copper line- - - -not steel, since exposure to coolant will rust a steel line. The 3/16" OD copper line is difficult to find, but most of the restoration parts places sell a complete kit to replace the line. The fittings that adapt it to the block and assure a leakproof connection are also a little scarce, so using the kit with the right fittings is also the simplest way to go. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Hotrod Lincoln, The motor was just rebuilt and no fluids were added yet. Do you say replace because you thought fluid spilled in the oil or because you think the pipe broke inside? Trying to see if I can get away without replacing the pipe. However at this point I really don’t know if it broke inside.
The tube is secured to the fitting on each side of the water jacket by a one time use compression ferrule, or sometimes it's soldered to the adapter fittings.. Either way, if you are trying to reinstall the original tube, it's a lost cause. Do not gamble the life of a brand new engine for the sake of a few bucks to buy a new line and do it right. That's false economy. If your engine builder does not understand how the upper engine oiling system works on an old stovebolt, you picked the wrong builder. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Perhaps he's in the same boat as I am....I've searched all over Oklahoma and haven't found a mechanic that would even touch an old inline-6. Hence, I ended up doing the work myself. I agree, though, don't skimp over a few bucks. I'd make your mechanic tear it down and fix it right on his time/dollar since he's the one who screwed up by the sounds of it.
I'm wondering how well the rest of the engine build has been done, particularly fitting and clearancing the Babbit rods, and aiming the oil spray tubes so the engine doesn't burn a rod bearing the first time it runs above idle speed. The 216/spray oiler 235's aren't particularly forgiving of mistakes where the lower end oil system is concerned. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
The build was done by another shop for that spent their time on it wrestling with babbit bearings and all so lm hoping it’s all fine in that department.
I started in on this job and it appears the engine builder welded this thing in. I would think it should have just been screwed into the pushrod side? Options? I still don't know if it's broke, pushrod side looks fine it's the drive side that I can't seem to screw back in, perhaps it's broke in the water jacket somewhere.
That is really too bad. Normally the fitting under the cover is soldered to the copper line. The fitting has a pipe thread and it is threaded into the block. Then the ends of the line are bent and fitted .
That job looks downright amateurish. There's supposed to be an adapter fitting in the block, with either a special compression nut threaded into it, or soldered (not welded). Good luck getting that mess sorted out! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
yeah, what a mess, is this the same guy that rebuilt the engine? I would really question anything else about the engine. Those lines/fittings are cheap and extremely easy to find through most of the common vendors. There is no reason for this sort of heinous activity.
