Seems when I get stuck with a problem someone here has the answers to my dilemmas. I feel sheepish asking so many questions and not being able to offer any “pearls of wisdom” myself........but here goes.....
Doing body work on the box and rear fenders on my ‘47 AD 3100. Looks like the box was a retrofit as they mangled a new hole for the underbed gas tank. That was fixable.
The fenders were puzzling. The amount of bondo in some places told me the PO had no idea what “metal finishing” is. An issue many here have likely experienced. The other “discovery” was the number of holes in the box and in the fenders for attaching bolts.
That creates questions: were all 3100 rear fenders interchangeable from ‘47-‘53?; Were all the short bed boxes interchangeable during those same years?; what was the original number of attaching bolts used in attaching the fenders to the box sides?
Check Mar-K’s website. They have a lot of detailed informative text and diagrams. Good luck.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
I believe all rear fenders are the same from '47 thru '53, and the beds were generally the same (with the only difference being the hole for the under-bed tank on the early trucks.
On my '51 3100, there are 8 bolts thru the fender and bedside: two below the floor, two thru the floor angle and 4 more above the floor.
I have a diagram in my shop for hole locations in the bedsides, as I needed to patch most of them and needed to know where to redrill the holes. If you want that, I can share it with you. Might be a little hard to read. The datum point for the measurements is the front of the rear stake pocket and the lower edge of the bedside (except as noted below) . Hole #1 -- 4" forward and 1" above Hole #2 -- 4-7/8 forward and 5-5/16 above Hole #3 -- 13-1/4 forward and 12-5/8 above Hole #4 -- 24-1/2 forward and 13-7/8 above Hole #5 -- 35 forward and 11-3/8 above the lower edge of the open area over the axle (not the lower edge of the bedside) Hole #6 -- 47-5/16 forward and 13-5/8 above Hole #7 -- 54-3/4 forward and 5-5/16 above Hole #8 -- 56 forward and 1 above
Note that holes 2 and 7 are thru the angle strip
Hope that helps out.
Last edited by klhansen; 04/17/20183:51 AM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Seems after 70 years many changes are made and it’s hard to figure out what exactly was original. This puts me on the right track. I do have Mar-k’s catalog but you can only get so much from that. I even considered new sides for the box and at one time new/different fenders. Being stubborn and confident in my abilities I decided to work with what I have. This info prepares me to go back and weld, hammer, metal finish to prep for painting.
Good luck with your patching. I learned how to shrink metal when I redid my bedsides to get the warping out of them. That and hours of welding, grinding, and hammering.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
