I just got my 235 back from being rebuilt and I have a question. The engine stand I have doesn’t appear to be able to properly mount the engine. What do most of you do to put the engine on to make it portable? Do you use a stand or a cradle? And if so what do you recommend? Thanks for your help with this.
The oddball bolt pattern on the back of a stovebolt block makes it difficult to position the spider legs of an engine stand properly. I like to bolt a piece of 1/2" X 2" flat steel bar about a foot long across the top two holes in the block and drill holes in the ends of the bar to allow the upper legs to spread out for a wider stance. Use a stack of flat washers under the lower legs to allow the engine to sit level. This also allows you to position the pivot properly to avoid center of gravity problems when you need to turn the engine upside down for access to the oil pan.
Use a 4-leg stand with legs long enough to extend past the front end of the crankshaft. A lightweight stand designed for a small block V8 creates a very dangerous tipping hazard. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
That's a way better solution than what I did Jerry- I drilled the heck out of my engine mount arms until I had a hole combination that sort of worked.
I did not feel comfortable putting the cylinder head on the block while it was on my V8 engine engine stand due to the tipping hazard, so I moved the block to a wooden cradle just before I put the head on.
~ Dave 1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission
The engine stand I have is a Strongway 2,000 lb rotating model. I purchased it from Northern Tool. It worked great for the tractor engine that I worked on but doesn’t seem to be a good fit for the 235. Thanks for all of your help in this matter.
I have a similar stand. It takes a little time to make it fit but it will by using long bolts ( I use grade 8) and stacked washers. Some hole drilling may be necessary. Someone here on the site at one time sold an adapter plate.
Here is how I have easily/securely/safely mounted stovebolt engines/blocks with that style stand.
This arrangement uses odd/unconventional relocation/realignment of the mounting fingers.
Do not worry: this arrangement is steadier, and gives a better center of gravity, that using the "normal" orientation of the fingers. The engine can be easily/safely rotated. The engine can be easily/safely rolled around (on relatively level ground).
Thanks to everyone for their help on this. I feel much better about mounting the engine on my stand now. Looking forward to this weekend and giving it a try.
Farmall -- If you haven't already seen this in our Tech Tips section, here's the info on how to build your own engine dolly/cradle.
Especially good for assembling bell housings, clutches and all the top end stuff. I have several in use here now and they work great. We even use them for running the engines. I broke in my 261 recently on one of these cradles.
~ John
A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.
1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 1963 Kaiser M38A1 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
That engine dolly/cradle is indeed useful/safe. I have made/used two of them. (using heavy-duty casters/wheels from Harbor Freight, two swivel and two non-swivel).
I'm going to bring a commercial-grade engine stand to the homecoming that I've modified specifically to accommodate stovebolt engines if anyone wants to take pictures/measurements for their own use. Even though it's built MUCH heavier than anything available from the imported tool places, one of those stands tipped over forward and severely injured a student's foot after he tried to use it to support a stovebolt engine with the bellhousing attached. The injury required 80-something stitches to close cuts, and several bones were broken. He was wearing a pair of heavy leather work shoes, which probably kept his toes from being amputated. These engines have no mercy when they fall from waist level! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I do not think that I have ever tried to hold/move an engine with the clutch housing/assembly still attached. I would/will never try to do so.
I have never had a problem moving "bare" 235/261 engines in-and-out of the garage and up small inclines (such as in the photos I posted above - 200 ft from my garage on a slightly sloped macadam driveway. It did not even threaten to tip over.
