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#1262026 04/09/2018 11:26 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 843
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yar
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Hi Jon,

I'm adding PCV to my restored '36 Chevy pickup engine. The carburetor is a '39-'40 Chevy W-1 with a 94 main jet and a standard size '37 Chevy metering rod. That's the combination that my '36 engine seems to really like. The PCV setup is copied from the Deves method with a Standard brand V-237 PCV valve in a 1 1/4" tube "T"ed on to the 1 1/4" draft tube, with the bottom of the draft tube plugged with a 1 3/16" freeze plug.

The PCV like will be plumbed into a 1/8" pipe port in the intake manifold unless you think it should feed into a plate directly below the carburetor. I would make such a plate from phenolic to retain the present heat insulation provided by the OEM spacer.

Can you tell me what jetting changes or other carburetor modifications you anticipate with this modification?

Thanks Jon!

Last edited by yar; 04/09/2018 11:27 PM.

Ray
yar #1262049 04/10/2018 12:58 AM
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,763
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Carburetion specialist
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If the engine is in reasonably good shape, I would anticipate no carburetor changes to be necessary. (In a few months you may tell me how wrong I am wink )

If the engine rings are worn, and there will be a large amount of smoke entering the intake, the ignition system may require more modification than the carb.

As to the location where you plumb the PCV into the intake, again, the engine condition might be significant. If the engine were really worn, I would want the smoke to enter as close to the carburetor fuel stream as practical.

Maybe Jerry would comment here.

I have never made this modification, so the above is guessing.

The only possibly similar personal experience was with (memory) a 1979 motorhome built on a Chevrolet chassis and 454. The heavy duty truck chassis did not require smog emission equipment, so obviously, none was present. When ethanol became prevalent in our fuel, we started having issues with excessive pressure in the fuel tank (dual exhaust, and the 75 gallon tank right between the two exhaust pipes). Got so it was dangerous to remove the gas cap, as the pressure would literally blow the cap from ones hand. My solution was hit the salvage yards for charcoal canisters. Since on the pickups, one canister handled a 25 gallon tank, I reasoned 3 should handle a 75 gallon tank. Added the necessary bleed valves and the three tanks. Pressure issue was solved, and no carburetor changes were necessary. However, I had already removed the original Rochester Q-Jet and manifold, and replaced it with an Offenhauser intake and Carter AFB, with a fresh air intake hose coming from in front of the radiator.

Jon.



Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
The Carburetor Shop
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yar
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Thanks so much for that information Jon. The engine was assembled in the early 1970s with all new components, except the block and has only run about 13,000 miles over the years. I was able to find just about everything NOS, even the head. So the engine is in good shape still. I'll go ahead and install the system I've cobbled together and report back to you how it's working out.


Ray

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