The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
5 members (Brian Moore, texas46, dt235sd, TexasA&M48Truck, Steelonsteel), 59 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,022
Posts1,055,381
Members48,422
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1261235 04/02/2018 11:10 AM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 224
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
4 Offline
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 224
The seam that separates the roof from the back panel on my ‘47 3100 AD is “open” as there is no caulking in it. Seems over time water could creep into the seam causing rust issues.
Was the seam originally filled with caulking or something else? The exposed seam does offer an interesting line break but I’m leaning towards seam filler and painting over it.
Looking for info on the original from factory condition as well as what others have done to deal with this issue.

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 256
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 256
Jim, My AD started life as a 3 window. I had a light bulb moment to do a roof swap and make it a 5 window. That seam is where I split my cab(s) and did the surgery. There are a lot of spot welds holding the top of the cab, the roof, to that lower back panel and yes, there was a lot of rust on those pitch welds between the body half’s. I cleaned up all the rust at that location and then primed everything, and then used a generous bead of seam sealer between the two halves before I welded and screwed the pieces back together. As there is no movement between those body parts I think that if you clean up that area real well and prime it, and then use a quality seam sealer before paint, it should make for a clean and long lasting repair and future rust or cracking of the seam sealer shouldn’t be an issue. Mine is Still Solid 30+ years later.
Good luck, Dave


1948 5-window 3100 Chevy
327 V-8 TBI 700R4 Posi 3.73
"Old Blue"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 155
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 155

Was the seam originally filled with caulking or something else?

When the truck was manufactured, the seam at the back of the cab was filled with lead solder.

Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 224
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
4 Offline
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 224
Thanks for the suggestion, Dave.
Today I cleaned the entire length IOf the that channel with a Rolodex disk. I found solid metal and no issues with rust. Think your suggestion coin codes with my thoughts: clean the channel, epoxy prime, squeeze seam sealer into the seam, then paint.
Am going to try to be careful not to completely cover/bury the seam until I find out what was originally done by the factory. This is a DD but I’m trying to keep it as original as I can.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,001
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,001
Originally Posted by RdsLessTaken
Was the seam originally filled with caulking or something else?

When the truck was manufactured, the seam at the back of the cab was filled with lead solder.
That seam wasn't leaded, it was sealed with seam sealer per the FAM.
The seam between upper and lower cowl panels and at the upper corners of the windshield were leaded, however.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
I had mine media blasted, epoxy primed, and filled the seam with 3M panel adhesive. The 3M panel adhesive is 2 part and is wonderful to work with and is as permanent as it gets. It does not take much to fill the crack of the pinch weld. When you are done, you should not be able to tell where the pinch weld was. It should look just like the top of the belt line. I see too many high dollar rebuilds with seam sealer spooge under the expensive paint like they did it with a finger. Seam sealer doesn't last either.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 224
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
4 Offline
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 224
52Carl,

After cleaning the seam I found no rust. I will check out the panel adhesive by 3m. Thanks for the suggestion.


Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0