The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Wheel adapters.

I have a 51 and has 6 lug wheels on it. I would like to know if anyone has used wheel adapters to change from 6 lug to 5 lug so I will have a better selection of wheels. I am just trying to save a little money. Please let me know if this is a bad idea or will it work. Thanks for help.

The thing I do not like about 6 to 5 or 8 to 6 is that they are 2 piece with cap held with flush head bolts into aluminum. If you go this route be careful as to the type of locktite (even blue can cause probs) you use to secure these as heat may be required or they may take threads with them, or allen head may booger when trying to remove - like for brake work. I stayed 6 lug.

Might be OK for a trailer queen that never gets driven in traffic. I wouldn't bet my life and those who share the road with me on the things.
Jerry

I ran them for many years but it was not a pleasant ride. A 1" thick plate with locking nuts in recessed holes that require a very thin walled socket to remove. Then screw in studs in the 5 bolt pattern. I am convinced that the "spacing outward" of the wheels makes for more than normal road wander. Also, when removing wheels, the studs will back out so you must be attentive to make sure they are screwed back in before installing lugnuts or they will come loose! From the voice of personal experience, you won't like them.

Ok I am sold. I will re drill the front drums and the axles. Thanks guys.

Whoa, who said anything about that option?? I've never heard of that. Is that even possible ?

I would avoid wheel adapters if at all possible. I'm curious as to what wheels you are considering.

Been done thousands of times and is fine when done right. We have done hundreds of Ford 9 inch because the pickup rear ends are easy to find but have the 5.5" bolt pattern. First spot face the back side of the flange so new lugs are on a flat surface and often (usually) have to turn the center pilot down to fit car wheels. We can index the flange so press in studs work but accurate lug holes are not necessary as long as the wheels are a tight fit on the pilot. The lug nuts do nothing as far as centering or alignment and only hold the wheel to the flange IF the pilot is correct. Of course it is better if both pilot and lugs are in sync but I have seen lugs in way oversize holes in the flange where the lug nuts were run up tight in the wheel to align the lug bolt and then the head welded to the flange (good luck replacing one). On the S10 frame swaps we do we can build a rear end to fit but use STEEL adapters on the front. The adapters or spacers, since an S10 already has a 4.75 lug pattern, are 2.25 inches thick so there is plenty of room for a full size lug nut. Some just use a long lug bolt that passes through the holes in the spacer but I like to use bolt on spacers with studs for the wheel and a center pilot. The stud has 2.25 inches of steel to screw into and the thermo expansion and contraction of the adapter is the same as the hub/drum---not so with aluminum ones. As far as suspension load with the outboard extended wheel position it is a non factor in a no load or lightly loaded truck. The truck was designed with suspension to operate with a maximum load so there is no more strain on one with spacers than one with a big block engine/trans setting at the front of the bed. On an S10 at least there is no tire scrub when steering is turned against the lock in either direction which is more than can said about the GM designed 73-79 pickups. Do a search for Moser Engineering in Portland, IN; they re-drill flanges/hubs/ drums/ rotors for a very reasonable price.

Virtually every AD on s10 chassis runs wheel spacers. Mine had 2-inch spacers up front and 1-inch out back and drove many thousands of smooth, trouble-free miles. Good quality spacers/adapters are strong and reliable; if properly installed, there is absolutely no reason to avoid them.

There are probably OK wheel adapters and situations where they are acceptable..

There are also junk adapters out there, and or not well designed.
Have a look at the following pictures of some adapters I bought to use on a small/light trailer, about everything that could be wrong with them was, Thankfully I was able to return them and not lose much money. Never replaced them, deciding making new hubs is a better idea.

Studs not square
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qiPdrhVtycZgZ2UU2

Studs not fully seated (pressed in)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yBoTXwLqLu1QNxHy1

Studs not square because head not concentric, and or counterbore is undersized.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/T7XBY3zw12EgL7KR2

Studs not pressed in fully because knurls not properly placed, full stud diameter before knurl prevented pressing them in, damaged bore in adapter.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/F2b1PBKm02VaqxpG3

Mating surfaces not cleaned up flat, note saw marks (perhaps not a big deal if only a small area, depending on location, indicates low pride in workmanship)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QWnEBS2IpWXRYP143

Adapters not parallel by 1/64" over the diameter, tire/wheel run-out at much larger diameter would be much exaggerated. They were also undersized, ordered at 1.500".
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mJ8bjLh18jcq37hu1

Those were from EZaccesory.com communication was also very poor, and I believe they were made overseas to order, not US made.

Jay Zed, 6 to 5 bolt wheel adapters and 5 to 5 bolt wheel spacers are two different things. You are comparing apples to oranges.

If the "spacers" first bolt on, then bolt the wheel to the spacer with a second set of studs/nuts the spacers are very much the same as "wheel adapters" which also bolt on and then bolt the wheels to the adapter.

Some spacers are different, the kind that use extra long studs and are just sandwiched between wheel and hub. Generally not a good idea though you can sometimes get away with them if very thin.

Thank everyone for the opinions. You guys have helped me a lot. I will probably go with the re drill because even if I use a good adapter that will put the center of the wheel out around 2 inches. I have a friend that has a machine shop. Thanks again guys.

Adapters and spacers are basically the same thing, just with different stud patterns. Suffice to say that I have used both with equal success.

If I decide to go with the adapters and they are 2 inches thick for good ones. I am running 4 inch backspace on steel American racing wheels. If I can go to an aluminum wheel do I just go with a bigger backspace to make up for the spacer. Thanks again.

My adapter plates were something my dad installed on the truck before I could even drive. They were a steel round plate that had recessed holes and used 11/16" lock nuts on the original 7/16" studs. Then they were drilled for the screw in studs in the 5 bolt "dodge" bolt pattern. At least one gets REAL close to the original nuts. I ran them, not without trouble as mentioned.

A car hub from similar year model will give you the front wheel 5 bolt pattern. That leaves you with re-drilling the rear axles. Moser was mentioned earlier. I contacted them and they told me they could do them. I sent them the axles and they changed their mind, They said that welding up the old holes hardened the old metal enough that they could not re-drill them. I found someone else willing to tackle the project and I am sure he will speak up if he wishes to be given due credit for his efforts.

Just my personal experience for what it is worth.

To get the 6 bolt rear axles redrilled properly for the most popular Chevy bolt pattern that most of the disc brake conversions use,, two adjacent bolt holes must be welded up, and the flanges need to be machined true again. It's not terribly difficult, but it does require some skillful welding and machining. IMHO, that procedure is MUCH better than using any sort of adapter. I'd also suggest attaching the brake drum to the axle flange with a couple of 5/16" countersunk flathead screws, as redrilling them to match the 5-bolt pattern compromises the matchup between the studs and the drum center plate.
Jerry

Really want to thank you guys for all the help on this situation. I think you guys are special for helping a stranger like you did.

That's what Stovebolt is all about- - - - -If some of us old geezers don't pass on the sneaky tricks, they will just go away when we do!
Jerry

I would stick with the 6 bolt wheels, which would be the much better option, for many reasons. There are tons of 6 bolt truck wheels out there.