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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,051 Posts1,055,767 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 135 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 135 | I'm not a body man, but I'm going to act like I am and strip the paint from the interior of my 55. Looks like they might have just sprayed a cheaper paint over the original, its not pealing or flaking but I don't trust it. So what would work well? As I see it hand sanding will take a long time and getting into the recesses will be almost impossible without damage. I could chemically remove it, but if any of that stays in any crevasse it would not be fun to deal with after painting. Sandblasting? I can see where that would get the contours done without damage. But it would fill the truck with sand. Rotary paint remover Pad? It wouldn't get into the tight places and rings around the switches. Mix and match all of them? What do body guys do? What I'm not looking for is "Well you could try" what I am looking for is "what I do is". I have striped the top of it with a DA, that wasn't a problem. Getting around the other spots the DA looks like it will not work. Thanks Lee
Last edited by LeeP; 03/27/2018 9:04 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 | I think the trouble you'll run into here is that "what I do is" for most of the guys here, is remove the cab and do a full restoration....
So, what I have done in the past for a quick spruce-up, is:
Small Scotchbrite wheels on a small air grinder. If you don't have air in the shop, there are small electric grinders that you can chuck those Scotchbrute wheels into. For around the switches, use chemical stripper, as long as you can be sure that you won't have a problem removing all of it- then hand sand those areas.
~ Dave 1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission | | | | | Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 135 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 135 | The cab is coming off eventually, I'm just not ready to do the cab corners yet. I'm thinking it would take about a year to get it stripped with Scotchbrite. But thanks. The entire truck is going to bare metal. I'm doing it myself its not being shipped out for strip. It is nice when you can just haul it off to someone, and it comes back pretty. But now that I'm retired I have decided to do the complete truck myself, and there's a few things that work out better when you ask how to do it the right way. I do have a complete shop but its a mechanic shop, not a body shop. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 | If you plan to go to bare metal on the entire cab eventually, then why are you so concerned about doing this partial spruce-up so perfectly? I understand making it look right in the meantime, but perfection in not necessary for the short term. I would scuff it, prime it, and rattle can it for now, then do it over after you do the total strip down the road. I have made some dashes look absolutely awesome with Rustoleum rattle can products.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 135 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 135 | How did we get into a spruce up? I'm stripping the entire truck, everything, Bare, no paint. I am doing the dashboard at the moment. Everything is going into 2k primer. I've got the cab bare metal except the firewall and lower rear. I still need to pull the cab for the cab corners and some minor floor repairs. Lots of spots on the 55 dash are not sand paper friendly. Thanks for the tips on Rustoleum rattle can products though. Lee | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 | I had trouble keeping up with all of the different posts. I did not understand how/if/when you stripped the entire cab. I prefer media blasting and epoxy priming in order to get to all of the areas which are hard to get to any other way. It wouldn't be that much trouble for you to blast just that area which you are having issue with. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 135 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 135 | Thanks Carl, Its not a problem. I decided to go with some paint stripper on the hard to sand area's. Then make sure its cleaned off completely. Its been raining a lot here and can't roll it outside to blast it, so been doing it the slow way. I'm using 2K epoxy primer sealer to keep the rust at bay until I can fill and paint it. A few dings and dents to remove before that though. | | |
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