The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop tackling rust in '51 3100 cab

I will be getting started on cab repairs for our '51 3100 this week but having researched a little here I see a recommendation to leave the cab on the frame to ensure it is square (makes sense) and to install new cab mounts to ensure the cab is properly fixed to the frame. So this is where I have a problem as both front mounts are rotted and in one case totally free of the cab itself.

I will need to replace the floor and mount support on each side but this raises a question as to whether there are now additional steps to ensure the cab is square first? Is there some sequence or step(s) I need to take to make sure the cab is 'correct' prior to installing new floor pieces. I will leave the cab on the frame until the floor/mounts are replaced but this is a wrinkle I hadn't expected.

Is it as easy as ensuring the frame is level, from rail to rail and along each rail, and then ensuring several points within the cab are also level?

Once I have these taken care of I will look at the cowl areas which are in need of work.

I will post some photos this PM once I have better light and maybe start a build thread although there don't seem to be many of those on this site.

Paul, if you want to start a build blog go to the Project Journal Forum. Photos are allowed there along with detailed posts of what you are doing. As for questions continue to ask them in the appropriate specific forum. Then when you use the answers to work on your truck go back to the Project Journal Forum and document your process. If you decide to go the V8 and suspension conversion your questions can be posted in the HiPo forum. We’re all interested in your journey and looking forward to your posts.🛠

Sometimes, build blogs are in different forums. Here's mine in the DITY Gallery. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...-suburban-update-mnsmith.html#Post830862

I did a lot of leveling of my frame before I did ANY cutting or welding.

Like Martin said, we're all interested in seeing your project! We love pictures!!

My cab is in the same shape. The first thing I did (it's still on the frame, but am planning on removing it to do the restoration) was to bolt a piece of angle iron between the lower door hinges at the right distance per the weld checking dimensions in the FAM. Using that to jack the cab to the right position will allow you to keep the alignment correct as you weld in new front cab supports and floor. Cross-bracing the door openings would be a good idea as well.
Here's a pic of that brace I put in.
cab brace

Yup Mike, I sometimes forget about the DITY Gallery since it’s up there with the Welcome Forum. Both forums are great.

Paul, normally just leaving the cab mounted to the frame would be enough to allow cutting out the floor for replacement but since you have at least one mount missing you might want to consider X-bracing the cab in both directions. Use 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch square tube. Some of our Body Shop pros will guide you through it.

There are two areas of these cabs which you don't want lose integrity/dimension while replacing panels.
1) the "ring of death". That is all of the metal that makes up the opening where the door fits in. rocker panels at the bottom, hinge pillars, lock pillars, top of the cab. As long as you don't cut any of those parts, you won't need to brace the door openings.
2) the distance between the hinge pillars at floor level. New floor panel halves combined do not measure the same as the original floor. Kevin's angle iron brace is all you need to replace the floor. I suggest that you only work on one side of the floor at a time. This will allow you to remove half of the floor and one front cab support at a time without the entire front of the cab collapsing.
Carl

Thanks. I checked the FAM and found a couple of great pages that show the dimensions from a multitude of places to other places. It looks like the floor pan should be 1.88 inches above the top of the frame so that will be a great starting point. Doing a quick rough measurement it looks like the floor is pretty much where it should be so it doesn't look like there has been any massive sagging. I will break out the camera and start taking photos as I go to see if I can produce something that is of use to others.

Now that I have the front end off and can see the extent of the damage I will start by ensuring the frame is level and then move (if needed) the body so that it abides by the dimensions in the FAM) and brace it there. I agree with 52carl that doing one side at a time is the way to go to maintain integrity. Luckily the rust is all low down and the door frames seems fine.

I will certainly be cross bracing the doors as well as taking measurements as I go to ensure nothing moves.

Thanks to everyone for the feedback. This is certainly more than I have tackled before but I enjoy a challenge.We will see if I feel that way in 6 months?!!

Take photos of everything! This will assist you on reassembly! I made this mistake and paid dearly for it.

Chris

Yup...when I restored the wife's 55 tbird I made that mistake. Took a bunch of photos but in certain areas I was saying "no need for a photo here, it is obvious how it goes back together and it will only be a few weeks before I am on reassembly"...roll forward 12 months and I didnt have a clue how they went back together!

This time around it will be photos of everything AND measurements.