If you can get to them, grind off the rolled end of the rivets and drive them out. If you can't get to that end, the grind off the solid head. I haven't reassembled mine yet, so can't say what the best approach on that is. But I'm pretty sure that pop rivets can be used.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Success, I was able to use a Dremel (fiberglass reinforced disc), worked great on the back side (rolled end) of the rivets. There are screws on the back side ends of the Stainless trim that have some "funky head" on them (not Phillips or standard or....), so I just cut a slot in the head for a big screw driver,
Re: $13 bit set Not a bad deal, but I had to wonder about this: "CORROSION RESISTANT: each bit has sandblasted finish for corrosion resistant" Since when did sandblasting provide corrosion resistance? Don't you just love how Asian product descriptions are so clear?
I got a plasma cutter that had instructions that would have been better off printed in Chinese for me to use Google Translate on. As an example, it said "Do not use in dropping environment". Best I could figure, they meant don't use it in the rain.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Okay, so I finally got to my grill yesterday. The weather is finally getting warm here, so I'm back on this project again.
I don't see how some of you guys drilled out the rivets in the grill- most of mine were just loose enough to start spinning the moment I started drilling...I suppose I could have clamped down the rolled side on the back, but man, that would have been a lot of work!
I found that getting to the rolled edge with a Dremel tool to grind it away was more than just a little bit agonizing.
After losing my patience I eventually moved on to an angle grinder with a flapper disc, and managed to get the grill completely apart in about 40 minutes. I removed a little bit of metal around the rivet area a few times, but nothing too serious. Ready to bump the grill bars out now.
Just thought I'd post this as it's always nice to have another source for these tools.
I'm going to be dismantling my grill this week- I'll post pics after I finish media blasting it.
Got mine on order thanks Dave
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration