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#1259894 03/23/2018 9:59 PM
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 94
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 94
Anyone ever remove the Grille assembly and then separate the Stainless from the assembly?

I'm guessing a Dremel tool and grind the rivet heads,
then for re-assembly maybe pop-rivets or (stubby) sheet metal screws.

What did you do?

Thanks, Jim

Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 79
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 79
I bought a complete rebuild kit from a supplier and it had everything needed to reassemble the grill 🎩


Tophat

1950 4400
1949 3100
1946 2 ton flatbed
1949 3800 panel
1952 3100 panel (newest one)

Queen Creek AZ
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
If you can get to them, grind off the rolled end of the rivets and drive them out. If you can't get to that end, the grind off the solid head. I haven't reassembled mine yet, so can't say what the best approach on that is. But I'm pretty sure that pop rivets can be used.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 94
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 94
Success,
I was able to use a Dremel (fiberglass reinforced disc), worked great
on the back side (rolled end) of the rivets.
There are screws on the back side ends of the Stainless trim that have some "funky head" on them (not Phillips or standard or....),
so I just cut a slot in the head for a big screw driver,
Attachments
IMG_7824aa.jpg (103.54 KB, 149 downloads)

Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 79
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 79
Those are “clutch head” screws

🎩


Tophat

1950 4400
1949 3100
1946 2 ton flatbed
1949 3800 panel
1952 3100 panel (newest one)

Queen Creek AZ
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 916
N
'Bolter
'Bolter
N Offline
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 916
FYI, I recently bought a set of bits on Amazon at $13 for my ratcheting screwdriver, and was surprised to find 3 clutch head bits included...!

$13 Bit Set

Just thought I'd post this as it's always nice to have another source for these tools.

I'm going to be dismantling my grill this week- I'll post pics after I finish media blasting it.

Last edited by Norcal Dave; 03/25/2018 9:18 PM.

~ Dave
1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
Re: $13 bit set
Not a bad deal, but I had to wonder about this:
"CORROSION RESISTANT: each bit has sandblasted finish for corrosion resistant" headscratch
Since when did sandblasting provide corrosion resistance? Don't you just love how Asian product descriptions are so clear?

I got a plasma cutter that had instructions that would have been better off printed in Chinese for me to use Google Translate on. As an example, it said "Do not use in dropping environment". Best I could figure, they meant don't use it in the rain. dang


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 916
N
'Bolter
'Bolter
N Offline
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 916
Yeah, I'll probably have to keep the whole set doused in LPS-3....ugh


~ Dave
1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 916
N
'Bolter
'Bolter
N Offline
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 916
Okay, so I finally got to my grill yesterday. The weather is finally getting warm here, so I'm back on this project again.

I don't see how some of you guys drilled out the rivets in the grill- most of mine were just loose enough to start spinning the moment I started drilling...I suppose I could have clamped down the rolled side on the back, but man, that would have been a lot of work!

I found that getting to the rolled edge with a Dremel tool to grind it away was more than just a little bit agonizing.

After losing my patience I eventually moved on to an angle grinder with a flapper disc, and managed to get the grill completely apart in about 40 minutes. I removed a little bit of metal around the rivet area a few times, but nothing too serious. Ready to bump the grill bars out now.

Grill disassembly


~ Dave
1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,518
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,518
Originally Posted by Norcal Dave
FYI, I recently bought a set of bits on Amazon at $13 for my ratcheting screwdriver, and was surprised to find 3 clutch head bits included...!

$13 Bit Set

Just thought I'd post this as it's always nice to have another source for these tools.

I'm going to be dismantling my grill this week- I'll post pics after I finish media blasting it.
Got mine on order thanks Dave


1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
In the DITY Gallery
Video of the 261 running

1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration

Moderated by  klhansen 

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