The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Timing '53 (full press) 235

Just to refresh,
Engine is completely assembled except for Distributor & Valve cover.

First question is...is this (below) the best way to find #1 TDC Firing?

Line up the flywheel BB with the Pointer which brings #1 & #6 TDC,
Roll the flywheel back & forth and which ever Cylinder's Rockers are NOT moving, then THAT Cylinder is (TDC) Firing?
Or is there a better/easier way?

Next question... (I've searched but can't find)
Could someone direct me to the Post where a Poster described (a sure-fire way) of how to Time an Engine without starting it?

Thanks, Jim

That's a good way to do it, but there's a somewhat better procedure. The stoverbolt cam has such a small area of "overlap" that sometimes it's difficult to recognize when the valves are "rocking". Start about half a turn away from TDC, and turn the crankshaft clockwise from the front until you see the #6 exhaust valve start closing (last valve in line). Just as that valve closes and the intake starts to open, the #1 cylinder will be close enough to TDC to install the distributor with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire. Then align the BB with the pointer. Turn the distributor housing clockwise until the points are closed, and back it up CCW until the points just break open. Lock the distributor down at that spot, and the engine will be timed close enough to start. Once it's warmed up, readjust the valves and dial in the timing with a light if necessary.

If you're running a new cam and lifters, do a 15-20 minute break-in run at fast idle (1500-2K RPM) before letting the engine idle down. This establishes a running fit between the cam lobes and the lifters.
Jerry

Hotrod,

I found mine by putting B.B. on the flywheel pointer. At that point, tried to spin rods. Which ever cylinder (1 or 6) spun, I knew that one was TDC. We then put distributor into the truck. If 6 was a TDC, we put 6 where it was pointed and went around firing order. Or same thing if 1 was TDC. We were close enough to start her up.

Thoughts?

Chris

I do mine slightly differently. I rotate the crank clock wise until I just feel compression out of the No. 1 spark plug hole. Then I align the BB to the pointer. I then install the cap on the distributor, and put a vertical chalk mark on the body of the distributor directly under the No. 1 plug wire tower. Remove the cap, install the rotor on the distributor, install the distributor with the rotor pointing at the chalk line (and make what ever small adjustment is needed because of the helix of the gears to keep the rotor pointed at the chalk mark). Double check that the tang on the distributor is full seated into the oil pump. This is really important because it is possible to start the motor without having the oil pump engaged. One you have confirmed that the tang is engaged adn fully seated, center the octane selector to O (hash mark on distributor pad) and bolt down. Now, double check that the rotor is pointing to your chalk line, the rubbing block on the points is on the high part of the distributor cam lobe and that the points are open. tighten the screw on the distributor clamp. Start motor, break in cam, readjust valves and carb, check timing and reset if necessary.

Mike, his distributor isn't in yet. Putting a chalk mark on one that's on the workbench isn't much help. Pick any cap tower you choose as #1- - - -the distributor doesn't care.
Jerry

But the distributor does sort of care though. You are right of course that theoretically, you can wire them any way you want, the distributor does not care where it fires No. 1, but ignoring the orientation of the distributor is a mistake. You want to get the distributor in so that the grease cup and negative coil wire are set up on the left side and accessible, and the spring clips that hold the cap on are all accessible and allow them to be unclipped without interference, and that the location for the No. 1 plug wire does not make the rest of the cap wiring unwieldy. I have reference manuals and a Thexton tool from the 50s that sets the negative coil wire up at about the 7 o'clock position give or take a little, with the No. 1 wire at about the 6 o'clock position. So if you intend to set up the plug wires in that manner, a sort of traditional manner, you would install the cap on the bench and mark the body of the distributor under the wire at that position. I tend to set my No. 1 cap wire one over so at about the 4 o'clock position (negative coil wire still at around 7 o'clock) so I mark mine at that point (on the bench) and then when I install the distributor, it goes in with No. 1 set exactly where I want it and at tdc or very very close to tdc. Then there is no real fussing with the orientation or the start up. You can get to the grease cup, the negative coil wire, and the retaining clips can be unclipped from the cap without any interference from the side plate. I noted to use chalk, for my own motors I use a paint marker. From that point on, you can use that mark as a static non-running reference for checking that tdc has remained tdc or if you ever have to remove it, you can reinstall it exactly where it needs to be installed, no fuss no muss. If you want to mark the body for some advance or retarded timing, you can use the octane selector plate, move the distributor to what ever you want, 2 degrees advance or retard, 5 degrees, or 10 degrees max, mark the body, and from that point you can use those marks as a static sort of method for dialing in what you want. That way, if you don't have a dial back timing light, you can put in a little advance or retard based on some known scale (the octane selector plate) as opposed to just guessing. Yep, its a little backyard but lots of guys don't have a dial back light so this is a way to obtain a little precision.