The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Repro sheetmetal

Been having a real go around with reproduction hoods. Wherever there is a dob of mastic(adhesive) bonding the subframe to the outer skin there is a wave visible after buffing. We use a long block and keep sharp paper on it so very little pressure is needed and let the subcoats (DP and K200) dry for a week before final sanding to minimize any shrinkage. The final guide coat will sand off dead even showing neither high nor low spots. When buffing after color sanding with 1500 we keep the metal as cool as possible but still end up with waves around the subframe to hood bond spots. Any ideas? Thanks; Evan

Well from what you have just said,it has to be heat from the polisher,if the guide coat shows zero waves and you can't feel anything ,something is happening after you sand.Have you tried spraying the 1500 grit sanded area with wash and wipe to simulate the look of clear,to see if you can see anything,we keep ours in those presurized spay bottles and just spray it on like clear and it gives you a pretty good idea of what you have got

You should try cutting the inner frame loose from the outer skin with a putty knife or piano wire, This has worked well for me in the past when repairing hoods

Also, I forgot to mention you should reapply a spot of calk back in these places after you relieve the pressure

Thanks guys, will definitely try cutting the spots loose. We usually use 3M windshield urethane for bonding pieces together--do you see any problem there? It's pricey but tough as nails.