The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Why do you think it quit?

Here’s the deal …the old one is coming out and the new one is going in.
The tired 216 is to be replaced with a fresh overhauled 235 full pressure.

So, just for the sake of discussion, what do you think was/is the issue with the 216?
I thought I’d give it one last chance at revival before pullin’ it.
Yes, it was tired but running fine on its last leg before quitting.

On a bright Saturday morning I drove it for about an hour (started good, ran good),
parked at the Marina for about an hour, came out and it wouldn’t start.

It’s a “splasher” and was about 3/4 qt low…..? is that a big deal for a splasher?
checked & re-gapped plugs,
checked & re-gapped points,
checked for fire,
checked for fuel,
wouldn’t even start with Starter Fluid.
even tried pushing…no start.

Got it home (on a flat-bed)
first thing I did was check the compression several times with 2 different compression testers,
got the same readings every time (both testers)..…
#1-0,#2-0,#3-0,#4-30lbs, #5-0, #6-0
even #4 at 30lbs is momentary, it too drops to “0” seconds later.

I didn't notice anything unusual in the way of sounds or smoke (but I wasn't really looking).
It still turns over fine,

What do you think happened?

Jim

Seems the cam gear may have wiped out. Set the dist cap aside & see if the rotor turns as you crank it over.
George

From a running engine to no-start and zero compression...that's pretty weird. Timing gear broken? Had a Ferd 302 that did that, just wouldn't start back up, although it had a slipped timing chain, not gears. May I suggest triple checking your compression test method and make sure you remove air cleaner and put a brick on wide open throttle. Other than that, I dunno.

George - great suggestion, I just tried it......but rotor turns fine.

Skooter - yea, weird, right? ....from a running engine to no-start and zero compression.

Did you remove valve cover? Would stuck multiple valves be possible? Rocker arms ECT? Timing gear worn out?

Check the distributor- - - -I'll bet it doesn't turn. You have the classic stripped timing gear symptoms.
Jerry

I agree, the cam is the only thing that explains very low and/or momentary CCP on all 6. Almost every cylinder has at least one valve partially open, and a very small leak is enough to kill the gauge reading.
Autopsy: the cylinders with the intake valves open may have bent those valves since they are closest to the piston @ TDC. The exhausts can't hit anything..

Panic,
"Possible bent valves" (as a result), of stripped Cam gear ...that was going to be my next question.
As George & Jerry suggested pulling the Dist cap and checking Rotor rotation,
...I did that and it appears to be turning fine.

I've already started dis-assembly so can't trouble shoot anymore,
If I decide to open it up, I'll let y'all know what I find.

Just out of curiosity, what type compression gauge were you using? Do the gauges have the check valve with a reset button allowing the gauge stays at it's highest reading until you release the air?

Mike B

Hey Mike,
I was using Testers with Check Valves (one was a "loaner tool" (AutoZone) and the other is mine (brand new)
Also, to test the Testers, I used a small air compressor up against the inlet hole of the Tester and they registered
roughly what the compressor was showing as putting out.

Jim