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| | | Forums66 Topics128,076 Posts1,055,920 Members48,429 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 6 | Have seen pics of the tie rod on a 1949 chevy 3600 . One shows the tie rod is on top with the tie rods ends facing down. Then I see one with the tie rod on the bottom facing up with the tie rod ends facing up. Which is right? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Here is one way.If you have a photo of the other way, please post it. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 | The only way I have seen them is as the picture from the shop manual that Tim posted. On my latest 50 3600 I wanted to replace the original assemblies with the modern type sealed tie rod ends. So I bought 2 from an ebay seller that were advertised for a 48-54 Chevy truck. And they were... for a 1/2 ton. The shank or stud on them was straight and after I got the ball-studs out the steering arms I saw that the hole in the steering arm was tapered. I had a local machine shop make me 2 tapered sleeves. It went together great. I don't know if that helps or... not.
Professional Novice
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 6 | I too bought the new style sealed from one of the companies like jim carter or chev of the 40s. They told me these newer style would replace the originals with no problem. They drop in the same length from the top or up from the bottom. Are you saying these have to have a taper on them? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 | That's what I found on my 50 3/4 ton. On the 1/2 ton the ball studs are pressed in then swaged on the bottom. One of the vendors did have step-by-step instructions on their site. You have to grind away the mushroomed end and press or knock the ball studs out. On the 3600 the ball studs are held in place by a castle nut. And they are tapered. One of the vendors was selling reproduction ball studs as they tend to get egg shaped. That was my experience.
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| | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 | http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=ME664&i=19637|||||
Sorry the link did not work - but Jim Carter does sell the 3/4-ton tapered ball studs.
Last edited by Frank50; 02/09/2018 7:00 PM.
Professional Novice
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Aren't the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton tie rod ends the same from 1939-1959?
I have received good service from the original-style adjustable (non-sealed) 3100 tie-rod ends. Yes, their rubber caps/covers are less than adequate, and they are often not very long lasting (they can be replaced). The balls bolt right in and are easily serviced (lubrication and adjustments) Replacement end-assemblies are available (I do not know if balls are), but they are much more expensive than changing to the sealed-style tie-rod ends.
Since chassis lubrication should take place every 1000, if you do standard scheduled lubrication, you can easily clean, inspect, and adjust all front-end and suspension parts at the same time.
Nonetheless, there are no negatives in switching to a non-adjustable/sealed set of tie-rod ends, assuming they are bolt-in replacements. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,966 | Thanks Tim for posting those links. The link I tried to post was for the same 3/4 ton ball stud. Probably one manufacturer furnishes them to all the retailers. And yes to answer your question; the original tie rod ends are the same. I used the best of my old parts (cups and springs) to recondition the steering link...
jimijet, does this help any? I hope the info is useful. And good luck with your truck.
Last edited by Frank50; 02/09/2018 9:04 PM.
Professional Novice
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 6 | I bought the new style 2 years ago because my original ones were ruined and couldn't be used. Sales rep from chev of the 40's said original ones should be straight. Mine were tapered and I called an old machinist and he is going to make me a set of tapered sleeves like Frank did. Thanks guys for all the helpful information | | | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 | When I compared my '50 3600 steering arms to a pair of '51 3100 steering arms, there was no difference. But I have no idea whether the parts were original to the respective trucks...
~ Dave 1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission | | | | | Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 41 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 41 | The 3600 does require a tapered ball stud. Just bought a pair of NOS tie rod sleeves off Ebay; on the way now. Found several vendors advertising same part for 3100 and 3600. Called a few to find out they don't know what they're selling. Rare parts sells a new complete stud and sleeve with new trunions for about $140 per side. JUst cost more to put the 3600 together.
Dave | | | | | Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 6 | Just picked up my new style tie rods from the machine shop. Forty bucks later I had tapered shims made for the straight shanks. Problem solved and I have the new style tie rods. | | |
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