The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 350sbc&350TH into 54 1/2 ton

First of many questions to all of you who have done this swap. I know there are many things to consider such as steering box, but to keep things simple and on point, please help me address one issue at a time. I have removed the stock rear engine cross member and have the engine hanging from the lift between the frame rails. The first thing I see is that the distributor will hit the firewall before the serpentine belt pulley clears the front frame cross member. So-- I would like to convert this 95 engine to simpler old style standard V-belt. Would that help? Shorter water pump? Do I need to cut a notch in the cross member to clear the crank pulley? Thanks

I have not done this exact swap but I have done swaps to 55.1-59. I am responding with just minor advise. I don't know what your experience is. I don't see it hitting in the pic. You can have the pulley as close as 3/8. I don't know if you have the motor at 4 deg down angle which you get when you level the carb/intake, if it has a carb. Chevy motors have a built in crankshaft angle to facilitate the pinion angle.
If the V belt has a smaller pulley that may help. Don't know if harmonic balancer would still be close. If the fan hits then a short would help, otherwise it's just for rad clearance.
There are smaller diameter HEI dizzys.
You didn't quantify the interference. Can't motor go upwards/forwards/tilted? I'm sure the AD boys will have the good info.
You said one thing at a time so I won't go further about any other issues for now, but they've been solved here before. No sweat.

Cutting/notching cross members is a no no IMO. Are you going to use a universal tubular cross members? That's what I use.

A short shaft water pump and a 2-sheave pulley will help move the belts back behind the crossmember, but putting a U-shaped cutout in the top of the crossmember and filling it in with a flat plate might make the engine position a little more adjustable.

DO NOT leave the bellhousing area crossmember out- - - -fabricate one out of square tubing and flat plate that will clear the torque converter housing and bolt it into place. That one serves as a stabilizer for the rear spring hangers and you'll get a lot of unwanted frame flex and possibly squirrely handling unless the frame rails are tied together near the spring mounts.
Jerry

I removed the serpentine pulley and only harmonic balancer is now in place. Engine now nestles into the frame with pretty good clearance from cross member and firewall. Looks like I need to find a crank pulley, and water pump/pulley combo that sets closer to the engine. Yes, I have an after-market tubular engine cradle. It looks like the next issue will be that this cradle mounts right where the current stock brake lines exit the frame.

What are you using for engine mounts? You seem to be trying to solve a problem which should not exist with this swap. I have put a 350/TH400 in a '49 3100. I used a factory serpentine belt system and there is no issue with the from cross member, nor the full size HEI distributor. I used Classic Engineering engine mounts.

Carl seems to have insured you that it's all doable. I would stick with him on each detail. This is the beauty of Stovebolt.com.

Carl: Right now the engine/tranny is just hanging in place from the engine hoist as I get a general idea of how much clearance I have at various points. From time to time I will throw out a perceived problem and may later find no problem exists. This is my first go-round with a 350/first series swap and getting your input as I go is better than screwing something up and having to back-track. I do have classic engineering mounts and I see the motor mount tube is wider than my frame and must be cut down to fit my truck. It also appears that the engine mount brackets will bolt to the frame right where the front brake lines pass thru the frame. Will I have to re-locate the brake lines, or am I getting ahead of myself again? It looks like it's about time to spring for intake manifold, carburetor, and HEI distributor to help nail down exact engine location. Thanks to you and everyone helping to walk me through this.

That is not the same engine mount setup which I am using from Classic Engineering. Unfortunately Classic Engineering's owner recently passed away, but rumor has it that someone has bought the business and hopefully they will be up and running soon and produce the same quality of really nice parts for modifying our heaps of junk.
Chevs of the Forties used to sell a similar, if not the exact same mount setup, but I just searched there and all they have now is the replacement rubber parts and the metal bracket which bolts to the engine. They no longer list the bolt-on frame bracket.
If you are unable to find the kit I am talking about, you can lift the engine far enough in the front to clear the front crossmember with the serpentine pulley in place, meanwhile you want to shoot for just enough room to slide your open hand behind the full sized HEI distributor. As bartamos mentioned, you want the carburetor to be parallel to the ground when the engine is in place.
Once you have done this, you will need to adjust the height of your current engine mounts to maintain the above mentioned engine position.
I strongly recommend the GM serpentine system. It rocks and there is plenty of room for it.
I have a completed '49 with the Classic Engineering setup, and a '52 with the same setup, but it is just the frame (no engine or body on it). I can take some exact measurements of the mount location if you need it.
Carl

Classic Engineering has been bought out by a company called "Heidts" I talked to a very helpful guy there named George a few days ago. 319 643 2645. They plan to continue producing most of the Classic Engineering products. Also ---- I was able to visit a local guy today who has done many of these SBC swaps and it was great to be able to see his 46 truck first hand, and go thru photo albums of other AD swap projects including 2 54's like mine. He has done each one a little different. The last 54 he did actually had the tubular engine cradle sitting on top of the frame, the serpentine crank pulley above the cross member, the stock fan now sits up near the center of the radiator, and the ram-horn exhaust manifold sits high enough to easily clear the steering box in it's stock location. Unconventional, yes, but it seems to be working well and the owner he did it for loves it. I still don't think I'll do that, but it proves there is more than one way to skin this cat!! LOL! Thanks all. I now feel like I have a fairly comfortable understanding of the whole project.

There's a firewall modification that makes a lot of sense to me. Buy a small steel tub wheelbarrow (they're cheap!) and trim the tub down to fit the center of the firewall and provide a smooth, well-fitting dimple for distributor and bellhousing clearance. It gives you a lot more leeway about fore/aft positioning of the engine and trans, without seriously compromising foot room in the cab.
Jerry

Progress! The engine is now sitting in the motor mounts instead of just hanging from the hoist. Nothing bolted in yet, but that much closer to it's final location.

That pic looks like how it should be. Looks like you now have room for the serpentine setup.
I'm with you about not raising the engine any further than absolutely necessary. They are top heavy going around corners already.

That is the neatest idea I've heard of since chocolate mocha swirl peppermint cream lemon lime latte.

I can't take sole credit for that one- - - - -I read about it over at the HAMB before the flamethrower jockeys got to be too much for me to put up with! With a little judicious welding and tinsmithing a flange could be added to make it a bolt-in piece for access to the rear of the engine on one with a deep rearward move of the drive train.
Jerry