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#32090 11/24/2004 2:08 AM
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New Guy
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Here is my question. I have a 216 in my 52 and have a 305 small block it the garage. Is it hard to fit the 305 in the engine bay? (engine mounts and room)and if i do are the mounts the same for a 350 for a furture swap?


Get busy liv'n or get busy die'n
#32091 11/24/2004 4:29 AM
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'Bolter
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The motor mounts are the same for the 305-350. You will have to move the steering box more outboard on the frame. This is due to exhaust manifold/header clearance.


1950 Chevy 3100
In the original Gallery
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1952 Chevy 1/2-Ton Deluxe Cab
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1957 Chevy 210 4dr
1957 Chevy Belair 4dr
1964 Nova 400 4dr
#32092 11/24/2004 1:37 PM
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Bowtie john is right - the small block chevy monts are the proverbial dime a dozen. Lots of shops sell a cross member motor mount that you can bolt in if you aren't the welding sort. BUT keep in mind that if your trans is original to the 216 it woun't just bolt right up to the small block. Changing the trans means changing the drive-shaft, which, if it's a torque tube; means changing the rear axle. Common enough job, but more than just a simple engine swap.

#32093 11/25/2004 3:50 AM
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Wrench Fetcher
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Hey Chazwel,
I'm putting a small block V8 in my 49 GMC 1/2 ton right now. There will be a number of things you will need to put your attention towards. Such as the guys mentioned in the previous posts. Different tranny, rear end, drive shaft? On top of that you will need to do some work on your steering box, and the fan to rad clearance. It's alot of work but when it comes together it sure is worth it.

kskt4

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Wrench Fetcher
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so just to confirm i have a stock 51 3100 that i pulled the 216 out of. I have a 305 and a 700r4 trans and a rear axle out of a 81 K10 that i want in. So i should use block hugger headers and just space the steering box out 2 inches? This should work for me correct? Can anyone tell me a link on a new radiator for the same truck/setup? I would like that to mount into the stock location

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Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Read the previous post about 265 manifold, not moving steering.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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In my opinion, it is a horrible idea to move the stock steering box to clear small block.
If you are going with a small block, 700R4, and a modern rear axle, then I will bet a dozen donuts to a dollar (old phrase adjusted for inflation) that as soon as you are done, you will say, "Dang, why didn't go with power steering while I had everything apart?" Power steering will solve the clearance problem.
I recommend strongly, ramshorn exhaust manifolds over headers.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
52Carl #1253193 01/30/2018 2:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 52Carl
In my opinion, it is a horrible idea to move the stock steering box to clear small block.
If you are going with a small block, 700R4, and a modern rear axle, then I will bet a dozen donuts to a dollar (old phrase adjusted for inflation) that as soon as you are done, you will say, "Dang, why didn't go with power steering while I had everything apart?" Power steering will solve the clearance problem.
I recommend strongly, ramshorn exhaust manifolds over headers.
Do i have to use ramhorns and power steering? or can i still use my stock gear box and ramhorns for the 305? I don't have the want or need or cash to throw $500 at power steering.

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Wrench Fetcher
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Originally Posted by EdPruss
Read the previous post about 265 manifold, not moving steering.

Ed
i was hoping to use a header that is better flow than stock manifold


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