The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1946 4x4?

I have a 46 1/2 ton with original front suspension. Has any one ever converted to a four wheel drive? The truck now has a T5 trans with a twelve bolt rear. Any suggestions?

I have a '47 first series GMC I have converted to 4wd. Full size 10 bolt Blazer front axle, 241 transfer case, NP-540 series 5 speed trans, 14 bolt SF rear axle, 6 lug wheels both ends. Full width front fenders-no tire stick out, GMC 302 engine. Scout power steering box.

The hardest part is adapting front axle parallel spring axle to tapered plan view original front springs, as well as 5 speed to transfer case.

Ed

I am getting ready to do the same for a 59 GMC. Front spring centers are 32" on the 59 -- not sure what a 46 is off hand. But Dana 44 and gm 10 bolts are 32" also for front.

I have a matching front/rear out of an 85 1/2 ton ---- GM 10 Bolt and 10 bolt rear I will use. You can use your 12 bolt as long as you have matching gear sets for front. You may want a right hand drop transfer case. If not rock climbing or mud bogging -- I like the np208. Can be mounted to a 350TH, 400TH, sm465 stick, 700r4 --there may be other custom adapters for other trans. Input shafts may differ with trans so be aware. I run a np208 behind a 700r4 in my 67. I will run a np208 behind a 350Th in the 59.

Frame swap can be done also ---- maybe an S10 reg cab long bed 4x4. Not sure on a full size. Keep all the s10 running gear ---- hopefully use 4.3 engine also.

I like this stuff.

I know this is a bit old. But on the 55.5 and older trucks I always just cut down a gm full size straight axle 5 inches on the long tube. Respline the shaft. And add a spring mount to the long tube 27.5 inches from the center of the passenger side. I use a Ford steering arm on the gm knuckle to get the proper length from the center of the ball joint to drag link hole. And use 73-87 GM 3/4 ton 4x2 tie rod joints to make up a drag link. Here is a shot under my 46 chev.

Is there a stock axle shaft 5" shorter that you can use?

Ed

There are plenty of axles that are narrow enough to work. That's not the issue. The issue is there are none that will work with 27 inch spring center width. Nearly every 4x4 built since the mid 50's uses a 32-36 inch width spring center. Since you can't have the spring sitting on top of the pumpkin. You need to scoot it over. Now honestly hundreds of custom narrowed axles. Both front and rear. Are made each week in this country. And most of the parts to make a custom 4x4 front axle are available new. But truth is the cutting and narrowing of the housing is very easy. It's about a 2 hour job. And a number of shops cut and respline axles. Most only charge 75-100 bucks per shaft. It's all pretty simple stuff. Plus if you have a sm420 trans. You can by an adapter to bolt a dana 300 t-case to it. Don't even need to add a crossmember.

Which end of the axle shaft works out best-the diff. end or the "C" end?

Do you just cut off the end and reattach the old end after boring it out or attach a new "C" on the end?

Thanks,

Ed

You cut off the long side. The "C" is welded to the tube only on the outside. Before I cut it off I use a 4 inch grinder and cut the weld as close to the c as possible. You hold the grinder perpendicular to the tube. I used to use a lathe but that weld is pretty hard. And rough on the cutter. Then after you cut it off I drill 4 holes into the tube straight down from the outside of the C . The I use a sawsall or die grinder to cut almost to the C. Then you can usually just knock the tube out of the C. As long as most of the weld between the tube and C is gone! Then clean up the tube with a fine or mostly wore out 4 inch flapper face on the grinder. You just want the crust removed. Heat the C with a weed burner. Don't turn it red hot. I use an infrared temp reader. If I am showing someone. About 400 degrees works well. Then the C will slip on the tube. Adjust the angle. I should add I have a jig made up to hold the housing, it holds the face of the pumpkin perfectly level vertically. That way when I use my angle finder. I know it's set correctly. Then 4 tack welds. Double check the angle!! Then weld it up. Also. I usually send a few axles at a time to get shortened. They only charge a little more for 2. Than one. Part of the cost is setup. That way i have spares.

Truckfarm72 is spot on. I have done a few the same way for jeeps and for my 59 Suburban. Really simple once you get into it and get started.

69cuda. Yep it is pretty simple. The old cj jeeps and willys wagons and pickups have always had a need for stronger front axles. I keep a pretty large selection of Wagoneer and scout housings to cut down for those. But that requires both sides being cut. Also an old Spokane boy . Who now resides on the west side of Washington regularly builds front axles out of GM 14 bolts.
Also with these pre 55.5 trucks when building it with the narrowed axle. You can easily undo the swap. I have gotten so good at these the last conversion was done in less that 2 days. My 46 took a bit longer. Mostly because I started going crazy with it. Swapping out the original 4 speed for a 420. Added a Watson 3 speed brownie. And a divorced np205. Plus I used a 72 chevy Dana 60 rear. Of course with a Detroit locker. There is not a lot of room near the transmission. And 2 handles and 3 shifters. All the rods. Mounts... Made for quite a puzzle. I did it again on my 65 gmc k1500. And had acres of room to mount the Brownie shifter. T-case. And pto lever.