One of the items on the to-do list on our '53 is to clean up the rear end that is weeping black goop from the split lines on the rear diff. It still has the stock torque tube setup. Obviously it needs clean fluid, but I'm wondering if the diff can be taken apart just a enough at the front split line without disconnecting it from the trans to replace the gasket or use gasket maker? Or do I have to disconnect it from the trans?
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604 In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell." "They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
Thanks, that helps me take it apart altogether, I don't see where I might be able to just slip the pinion and driveshaft back enough to replace the gasket
Not the ball joint that I've seen - yet. The rear diff cover, the front split line where the pinion housing bolts to the diff, and the bottom bearing retainer bolt are slowly weeping what looks like terribly old fluid.
You might want to post images/photos of those locations, so we are all "on the same page/model/part".
gasket replacements (after draining): - "The rear cover" - easy replacement - "the front split line where the pinion housing bolts to the diff"? photo would be nice - "bottom bearing retainer bolt"? photo would be nice
Is the differential making noise or are you just anal about leaks? These trucks are like old Harleys, if there’s not oil on the driveway it’s out of oil🛠😀
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Partly I don't like leaks, especially easy ones to fix, partly because it has to get safetied before we put it back on the road. I used to work on helicopters all over the arctic year round, stuff like this is not hard to do.
I think you are asking if there is an easy way to fix a leak between the differential housing and the torque tube. I would like to know the answer to that one too.
I think you are asking if there is an easy way to fix a leak between the differential housing and the torque tube. I would like to know the answer to that one too.
I had the same problem on my '47. It was recommended that I drain the rear end and clean the area where the torque tube enters the rear end. The first cleaning with a power washer and the second cleaning with brake cleaner. After everything is clean and dry, work some black RTV in the joint. Finish with a liberal bead of black RTV around the joint where the torque tube enters the rear end. This slowed my leak down; however it didn't stop it. I tried the process a second time with the same result.......
The torque tube is a pressed fit into the rear end and then riveted in place. I've also heard of people welding this joint to stop a leak.
My solution was to install an open drive shaft set-up on my 3100. That included a new differential (1955-1962), SM420 transmission, and a custom built drive shaft. The updated drive train solved my leaking torque tube!
The answer is a resounding "NO!" To begin with, the parting line at both the carrier housing and the rear cover will be saturated with oil, and no amount of external cleanup will be sufficient to get the surfaces clean enough for brush-on or gel gasket sealer to bond properly. Second, the original paper gaskets are full-circle pieces, so unless the front gasket is torn out a piece at a time you'll have remnants of the gasket interfering with the new sealer's ability to bond. Third, and most important, the front fasteners are studs, not bolts, so the torque tube and carrier would have to slide forward over an inch to clear the studs. The axle shafts won't let it move that far- - - -they must be removed. Even then, the front gasket would have to be cut on a diagonal at the top to let it be installed, and some sort of gasket sealer would have to be used to (hopefully) stop a leak at the very area where the ring gear would be slinging grease continually.
Do you draw to an inside straight when you play poker? Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
If I had helicopter mechanic anal retention tendencies about leaks (which is crucial for keeping helicopters in one piece), I would shoot for getting really good at completely disassembling a torque tube rear end and replace all of the seals. If will be fun and you can them make your friends wait in line to hear how much of an expert you are at it. (I don't have very many friends left from doing just that, but nevertheless...) Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Thanks guys, looks like we’ll read up on pulling it all apart when it’s not -40 outside. (wife wants to learn to work on vehicles - 75% of the reason we bought the truck)
And I don’t play poker, I’m usually tinkering outside on something while everybody piles into the neighbours garage.
I was a B-52 mechanic- - - - -at least the wings and the fuselage are traveling the same speed!
"Tower, this is Grope-22- - - - -I need a time hack!"
"Roger, Grope-22- - - -are you a bomber pilot, a tanker pilot, or a chopper pilot?"
"W. T. H. difference does it make?"
"If you're a bomber pilot it's 1200 hours- - - - -If you're a tanker pilot both of Mickey's hands are pointing straight up- - - - -
IF YOU'RE A CHOPPER PILOT, IT'S THURSDAY!"
LOL! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
So the next question would be what is the best way to remove the torque tube. Some of the older manuals advise to undo the rear suspension and pull the whole rearend assembly back. For me I would run out of garage space doing this. So my inclination is to disconnect it at the U jont, Unbolt the carrier housing at the rear and remove the tube.
Just a thought, make sure the axle tube vent is clear. Blockage can cause pressure to back up and puke fluid from any where that it can. Just information that I'm passing along. A cheap and easy fix if that's what it is.
So the next question would be what is the best way to remove the torque tube. Some of the older manuals advise to undo the rear suspension and pull the whole rearend assembly back. For me I would run out of garage space doing this. So my inclination is to disconnect it at the U jont, Unbolt the carrier housing at the rear and remove the tube.
Let me know how you make out, I probably won’t get to it till April or May when the weather smartens up
With what Lindsey highlighted in the pic, looks like the seal between the diff housing and the rear axle housing. I see he also highlighted the rear axle housing cover which is easy to do in place.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
I had the same problem on my '47. It was recommended that I drain the rear end and clean the area where the torque tube enters the rear end. The first cleaning with a power washer and the second cleaning with brake cleaner. After everything is clean and dry, work some black RTV in the joint. Finish with a liberal bead of black RTV around the joint where the torque tube enters the rear end. This slowed my leak down; however it didn't stop it. I tried the process a second time with the same result.......
The torque tube is a pressed fit into the rear end and then riveted in place. I've also heard of people welding this joint to stop a leak.
My solution was to install an open drive shaft set-up on my 3100. That included a new differential (1955-1962), SM420 transmission, and a custom built drive shaft. The updated drive train solved my leaking torque tube!
Good luck,
My leak - one of many of them - is where the studs are, not where the shaft is actually riveted in - or maybe it is, we'll see after I clean it up properly and replace some seals and gaskets. I'm just waiting on a u-joint seal set from the filling station and I'll be tackling this, maybe even this upcoming weekend if it's warm enough again. I'll post updates on how it goes.
Well, weather is not cooperating this weekend by the looks of it, but I did come across this link while doing some research on third members and they do not move the axle housing:
So finally got around to the rear axle today. It’s ALMOST doable without sliding the axle back, but not quite. I just had to undo one side and pivot the axle that way.
Unfortunately, the axle shafts are starting to flake where the wheel bearings ride. Does anybody make those new? I’ve only managed to find 5 bolt conversion axles shafts for 63-64 models so far.
Lindsey, I can't believe anyone can live where you do. My self I'm cold in Georgia. Yet on the map to Yellowknife it shows a whole city so their must be people up there. I'd have to assume that you have a Hanger where you service the Helicopters. What's the high in Summer?
Is there not a replacement bearing with a new inner race that is made for that. I know on the Chev sedans, which are similar had replacement bearings and races. the method was to turn the axle down in that area and press on a new inner race. One of the axles on my Chev Master has had that done.
Lindsey, I can't believe anyone can live where you do. My self I'm cold in Georgia. Yet on the map to Yellowknife it shows a whole city so their must be people up there. I'd have to assume that you have a Hanger where you service the Helicopters. What's the high in Summer?
Yeah we have around 20,000 people. A couple McDonald’s, subway, Walmart, Napa, staples all that stuff. The record high is around 95F I think, but we typically only get 80-85F for highs. There are lots of hangars actually, quite busy with aircraft as there isn’t any year-round roads north of here. I’ve been to a few states, not Georgia though
Is there not a replacement bearing with a new inner race that is made for that. I know on the Chev sedans, which are similar had replacement bearings and races. the method was to turn the axle down in that area and press on a new inner race. One of the axles on my Chev Master has had that done.
That’s what I’m trying to find, might be easier on the computer at work on Monday than on my phone. I can find repair stuff for newer more common axles. There’s a couple automotive places but they are quite hit and miss with this kind of specialty repair stuff. Most people just change parts these days... I’ll try checking with a couple local machine shops on Monday, hopefully they can do something or at least point me in the right direction.
Well a local machine shop can’t do anything, but recommended another place which I’m waiting to hear back on.
Does anyone know if there are any casting or ID numbers stamped on the axle? I’ve found a couple places that will make axleshafts, but I need an axle ID number and nothing they have listed seems to relate to a 55T.
