The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Engine starting problems, an ideas?

Went out and started my 52 Chevy truck yesterday and cruised to the mall. I turned the ignition switch to the off position and waited a while to pick up the wife. When she was ready to be picked up I attempted to restart the truck and it would not turn over. I turned on the headlights and they were really bright. I checked the battery cables and they were tight. It did finally restart. Drove home and pulled into the driveway and turned the ignition switch off. Turned the key back to the on position would not start. It sat for a minute and started back up. I turned the key on and off approx. 5 times starting engine and shutting it down, turned the key back on and it would not turn over. Still have bright headlights. Finally started back up. While engine was running I removed the negative battery cable from the battery, engine continued to run, that rules out the alternator. Really suspect the starter and selinoid. What say yaw? Thanks Hugh.

Still the foot starter? More info on the engine/starting system would help. I suspect yours is not a stock 50’s system.

I have an ignition to starter, no foot starter, 12v alternator, gel battery, 283 SBC, turbo 400, 10 bolt rear. Not stock, hope this helps. Thanks HUGH

Replace the solenoid and starter drive. That being said, does it click but not turn over until multiple on/off clicks? Or, do you have to do something else to get it to turn over? If it just clicks it’s probably the solenoid/drive.🛠

Please describe your symptoms a little more accurately. There's a world of difference between "won't crank" (engine doesn't turn over) and "won't start" (engine turns over but fails to fire up and run.) The diagnostic procedure is entirely different for these two conditions. I'm guessing you mean "won't crank" but that's just an assumption without evidence. "No crank" is usually caused by worn out starter brushes which doesn't let the pull-in winding in the solenoid find a ground so it can engage the starter drive and make the starter armature spin. The next time it happens, take a small ball peen hammer, lug wrench, or other blunt instrument and tap the starter housing. That will seat the brushes temporarily and let you fire up. Then go home, pull the starter, and change the brushes.

Changing the solenoid won't help - - - -it's not the problem. You got lucky and didn't ruin your alternator this time - - - -please don't EVER take a battery cable off while the engine is running again. It's a shade tree mechanic trick that causes huge voltage spikes and usually blows out alternator diodes or solid state voltage regulators.
Jerry

Turn on ignition switch, it will start up fine, when engine gets up to operating temperature and you put it in park and turn the ignition switch off it may start again or it may not, again no click, when u try and start it up just silence. Turn on lights and they are bright and strong. I can start it up after it cools down and turn it off, I can repeat this about 4 or five times in a row, then it will not start up you can turn the key but no click click click of the selinoid.

Do you have a neutral safety switch on the tranny? That could be the problem. If the linkage isn't adjusted properly, it could cause the switch not to make contact.

No neutral safety switch on the tranny. Thanks HUGH

OK- - - -I'll bow to the wisdom of people who have never fixed the same problem. I've done it dozens of times, but experience gets trumped by a WAG here, routinely. Bye!
Jerry

Have you tried starting it in another spot besides park? Loose wire? Check your wiring at the solenoid. Just throwing out low tech suggestions.🛠

Really appreciate all the help, had a hunch it could be the selinoid and starter from the beginning, going to order a new starter, and selinoid too so I dont have to replace it again later. Had already tried the the old hammer tap and that did not help. The only thing that helped and only a little bit was letting it cool down a bit, after that it would turn over and start on the first or third try. As far a replacing brushes not so sure that would be cost effective as this starter looks really really old, and the selinoid too, think it would be better to get a whole brand new package. Again thanks to all who took the time to point me in the right direction, Hugh.

HotRod's suggestion about the ball peen hammer to the starter brought back memories of my first car, a 1978 MG Midget. I used that trick plenty of times to get my MG started. Come to think of it, I use to carry all kinds of spare parts and tools in the truck and could literally rebuild half of it on the side of the road!

"Selinoid"- - - - -is that something like an adenoid?
Jerry

Nope. Had those removed already. I'm guessing some kind "roid". Hmmmm. Nope can't quite place it...

Replaced starter/selinoid, no further problems. Thanks for all the tech assist, Hugh.