The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Fixing the old truck

BUSY BOLTERS
Are you one?

Where is it?? The Shop Area

continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
10 members (46 Texaco, Southerntruck, BC59, Stewart2, walter74, JW51, TUTS 59, Hotrod Lincoln, BLUEMEANIE, 1 invisible), 535 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics126,776
Posts1,039,271
Members48,100
Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
Hi there. I’m at a lose on what I should do next. I don’t have a good knowledge about the front end to really diagnose my problem. I have a 64 k10. There is a noise the emanates from the front left wheel area. The sound is intermittent while driving but mostly it makes the noise....which sounds like some rotating metal scratching or grinding. I checked the oil in the knuckle and it’s good; I took the wheel off and turned the drum and I could hear the sound. I adjusted the brake from loose and to tight and the noise continued. You don’t here the noise when your in neutral at a standstill. The noise will continue when I go through the gears but I hear it the most is anything over 15 MPH.

I’m hoping someone might have some thoughts to share base on this limitied info. Thanks john


1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Could be a brake shoe keeper has come loose and is allowing the shoe to contact the drum. Or the brake shoes are just flat worn out (does it make more noise when you push the brake pedal?) I think you'll need to remove the drum and see what's going on with the brakes.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
I took the wheel off and the brake pad is relatively new....with in the past two years. I also replaced the brake drums too at that time. The sound doesn’t change when I press the brakes. The sound is more of a “shooshing” noise. Do you think the drums need to be resurfaced? Appreciate the advice. John


1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
I vote for something in the braking system. Two years is a long time in the truck world. Remove all 4 drums and inspect EVERYTHING. You will then either fix it or know to move on to another area.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,002
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,002
Check your wheel bearings while you are at it.
Kent


1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
Does anyone have some instructions related to removing the 4x4 hub locking mechanism inside the wheel hub? I removed the hub locking knob and pulled out the spring and locking spindle. There is a ton of grease in there. There is a small knobby protrusion inside the hub. I included some picture in the link below if it helps. I’m not sure what to do next in this process and given the amount of grease in there Is like to believe the bearings are greased up to but..... Thanks John.

https://app.box.com/s/1hlirdx2fmv93fvqb9yy1ykh6arutktw



1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
I'll bet if you Google Selectro with the MN if present, someone will have posted a U-tube video.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
There should be a snap ring in the space between the splined ring you can see in your picture and the bearing hub proper. You'll probably have to dig around in there with a pick to find the space in the snap ring. Once that's removed, the outer ring with splines should come out. There may also be a snap ring around the axle, down in all that grease. If so, that has to come out also to remove the outer ring.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
Good evening. I got my new wheel bearings and wanted to see if anyone was familiar with needing a specific “tool” to remove the jam nut? Or can you use a socket out of my kit to remove? Hoping to avoid needing anything last minute and with 9 degrees and snow, removing them to check really isn’t an option for me right now. Thanks John


1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
If its the spindle nut your talking about a crescent wrench or a nice pair of channel locks will do the trick.....its all I ever use.

.....just be sure to take the carter key out.

Last edited by Achipmunk; 01/02/2018 5:00 AM.

1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
So I’ve been searching for videos and other resources to help me get at the wheel bearings. I started again and didn’t get much further than removing the one snap ring I could find. After doing this I still cannot remove the windows to get at the bearings. I cannot find any other snap rings or nuts to remove. Can anyone offer any thoughts on next steps? The small spindle in the middle is where I removed the only snap ring I could find. The middle spindle moves backwards and forwards about 1/4 inch. I’ve felt around for a lock but but nothing. Is the outer spindle something that should be remover...the one that is closest to the hub? I’ve tried to remove this too but no luck. Any help would be appreciated. Ive added some additional pictures. Thanks John.


1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135


1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,436
2
Moderator
Moderator
2 Offline
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,436
Looks like that could be a spiral retaining ring still in place.
They are a flat ring that overlaps.

https://www.gwkent.com/retainer-rin...HveTJtXAkwoUQQRY7nXXbPOTqjRoCzboQAvD_BwE

Don

Last edited by 2-Ton; 01/27/2018 4:05 PM.

1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck
"The Flag Pole"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
'46 2-Ton grain truck | '50 2-ton flatbed | '54 Pontiac Straight Eight | '54 Plymouth Belvidere | '70 American LaFrance pumper fire truck | '76 Triumph TR-6
Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
Thank you. I tried looking for a retaining ring but didn’t find it. I went over the flat looking metal piece that surrounds the inner spindle and could not locate a seam. I also went over the outer spindle closest to the metal hub and nothing. The inner spindle has threading to accept a bolt or something as well. Not sure if that is useful.


1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
After looking at this again in a different light I saw the flat retaining ring. I was able to remove that from the outer spindle and metal hub. I feel like the outer spindle should slide out but it doesn’t. I’ve hit the hub with a hammer a few times. But am reluctant to hit it too hard to hopefully free it up.


1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,436
2
Moderator
Moderator
2 Offline
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,436
The spline probably has a few burrs where the ring was and will not engage the outer spline.
Use a square end Precision file and gently file the burr down
Harbor Freight has them for 4 bucks.
But do not force it, wiggle/tap and see if you can get those burrs back down.
If you don't have the files, we need HR Jerry to give advice.

Hope this helps and let us know the outcome.
Don


1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck
"The Flag Pole"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
'46 2-Ton grain truck | '50 2-ton flatbed | '54 Pontiac Straight Eight | '54 Plymouth Belvidere | '70 American LaFrance pumper fire truck | '76 Triumph TR-6
Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 135
I don’t see where there are any burrs. In the picture I labeled that area as #1. The metal hub acts like a lip where the inner gear cannot come out. It seams as if the entire metal hub had to come off to access the gears and bearings. I’ve tried everything to see what could be holding this together. When looking in the Center spindle #2 I can see threading. I’m wondering if you have to use a device like a steering wheel remover etc to remove that gear? Not sure why that would be threaded otherwise.

https://app.box.com/s/0vl33xiyem9ps9zfpzf8s1i60ppp30vo

Before i possibly messed something up I figured I’d check. Thanks John.


1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Hard to tell from the photos, but is the outside part of the splines on the part on the shaft the same size as the inside splines on the hub? Maybe they have to line up to get that piece out. In other words, would pulling piece out lock the axle to the hub? Not sure how you'd get it pulled out if that was the case however as there doesn't appear to be anything to grab on to it.

Are you sure there's no snap ring holding that larger splined piece to the hub proper?

Last edited by klhansen; 01/30/2018 3:05 AM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0
(Release build 20240826)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 8.3.11 Page Time: 0.030s Queries: 14 (0.026s) Memory: 0.6843 MB (Peak: 0.8072 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2025-09-22 15:50:20 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS