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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,778 Posts1,039,287 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | Hi there. I’m at a lose on what I should do next. I don’t have a good knowledge about the front end to really diagnose my problem. I have a 64 k10. There is a noise the emanates from the front left wheel area. The sound is intermittent while driving but mostly it makes the noise....which sounds like some rotating metal scratching or grinding. I checked the oil in the knuckle and it’s good; I took the wheel off and turned the drum and I could hear the sound. I adjusted the brake from loose and to tight and the noise continued. You don’t here the noise when your in neutral at a standstill. The noise will continue when I go through the gears but I hear it the most is anything over 15 MPH.
I’m hoping someone might have some thoughts to share base on this limitied info. Thanks john
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | Could be a brake shoe keeper has come loose and is allowing the shoe to contact the drum. Or the brake shoes are just flat worn out (does it make more noise when you push the brake pedal?) I think you'll need to remove the drum and see what's going on with the brakes.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | I took the wheel off and the brake pad is relatively new....with in the past two years. I also replaced the brake drums too at that time. The sound doesn’t change when I press the brakes. The sound is more of a “shooshing” noise. Do you think the drums need to be resurfaced? Appreciate the advice. John
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 Bolter | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 | I vote for something in the braking system. Two years is a long time in the truck world. Remove all 4 drums and inspect EVERYTHING. You will then either fix it or know to move on to another area.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,002 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,002 | Check your wheel bearings while you are at it. Kent | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | Does anyone have some instructions related to removing the 4x4 hub locking mechanism inside the wheel hub? I removed the hub locking knob and pulled out the spring and locking spindle. There is a ton of grease in there. There is a small knobby protrusion inside the hub. I included some picture in the link below if it helps. I’m not sure what to do next in this process and given the amount of grease in there Is like to believe the bearings are greased up to but..... Thanks John. https://app.box.com/s/1hlirdx2fmv93fvqb9yy1ykh6arutktw
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | I'll bet if you Google Selectro with the MN if present, someone will have posted a U-tube video.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | There should be a snap ring in the space between the splined ring you can see in your picture and the bearing hub proper. You'll probably have to dig around in there with a pick to find the space in the snap ring. Once that's removed, the outer ring with splines should come out. There may also be a snap ring around the axle, down in all that grease. If so, that has to come out also to remove the outer ring.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | Good evening. I got my new wheel bearings and wanted to see if anyone was familiar with needing a specific “tool” to remove the jam nut? Or can you use a socket out of my kit to remove? Hoping to avoid needing anything last minute and with 9 degrees and snow, removing them to check really isn’t an option for me right now. Thanks John
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | If its the spindle nut your talking about a crescent wrench or a nice pair of channel locks will do the trick.....its all I ever use.
.....just be sure to take the carter key out.
Last edited by Achipmunk; 01/02/2018 5:00 AM.
| | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | So I’ve been searching for videos and other resources to help me get at the wheel bearings. I started again and didn’t get much further than removing the one snap ring I could find. After doing this I still cannot remove the windows to get at the bearings. I cannot find any other snap rings or nuts to remove. Can anyone offer any thoughts on next steps? The small spindle in the middle is where I removed the only snap ring I could find. The middle spindle moves backwards and forwards about 1/4 inch. I’ve felt around for a lock but but nothing. Is the outer spindle something that should be remover...the one that is closest to the hub? I’ve tried to remove this too but no luck. Any help would be appreciated. Ive added some additional pictures. Thanks John.
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 |
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 3,436 Moderator | Moderator Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 3,436 | Looks like that could be a spiral retaining ring still in place. They are a flat ring that overlaps. https://www.gwkent.com/retainer-rin...HveTJtXAkwoUQQRY7nXXbPOTqjRoCzboQAvD_BwEDon
Last edited by 2-Ton; 01/27/2018 4:05 PM.
1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck"The Flag Pole"In the Stovebolt Gallery'46 2-Ton grain truck | '50 2-ton flatbed | '54 Pontiac Straight Eight | '54 Plymouth Belvidere | '70 American LaFrance pumper fire truck | '76 Triumph TR-6 Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most! | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | Thank you. I tried looking for a retaining ring but didn’t find it. I went over the flat looking metal piece that surrounds the inner spindle and could not locate a seam. I also went over the outer spindle closest to the metal hub and nothing. The inner spindle has threading to accept a bolt or something as well. Not sure if that is useful.
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | After looking at this again in a different light I saw the flat retaining ring. I was able to remove that from the outer spindle and metal hub. I feel like the outer spindle should slide out but it doesn’t. I’ve hit the hub with a hammer a few times. But am reluctant to hit it too hard to hopefully free it up.
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 3,436 Moderator | Moderator Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 3,436 | The spline probably has a few burrs where the ring was and will not engage the outer spline. Use a square end Precision file and gently file the burr down Harbor Freight has them for 4 bucks. But do not force it, wiggle/tap and see if you can get those burrs back down. If you don't have the files, we need HR Jerry to give advice.
Hope this helps and let us know the outcome. Don
1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck"The Flag Pole"In the Stovebolt Gallery'46 2-Ton grain truck | '50 2-ton flatbed | '54 Pontiac Straight Eight | '54 Plymouth Belvidere | '70 American LaFrance pumper fire truck | '76 Triumph TR-6 Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most! | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 135 | I don’t see where there are any burrs. In the picture I labeled that area as #1. The metal hub acts like a lip where the inner gear cannot come out. It seams as if the entire metal hub had to come off to access the gears and bearings. I’ve tried everything to see what could be holding this together. When looking in the Center spindle #2 I can see threading. I’m wondering if you have to use a device like a steering wheel remover etc to remove that gear? Not sure why that would be threaded otherwise. https://app.box.com/s/0vl33xiyem9ps9zfpzf8s1i60ppp30voBefore i possibly messed something up I figured I’d check. Thanks John.
1964 K10 Fleetside Pickup Truck | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | Hard to tell from the photos, but is the outside part of the splines on the part on the shaft the same size as the inside splines on the hub? Maybe they have to line up to get that piece out. In other words, would pulling piece out lock the axle to the hub? Not sure how you'd get it pulled out if that was the case however as there doesn't appear to be anything to grab on to it.
Are you sure there's no snap ring holding that larger splined piece to the hub proper?
Last edited by klhansen; 01/30/2018 3:05 AM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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