The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Clutch Housing

Another snag, looks like the 1955-59 clutch housings are the same, 60-62 and 63-67 and the 3 don't seem interchange. It looks like they all take the same starter and motor mounts etc. Anybody know just what the differences are and do I need to use my 56 that is in it all ready. I have a 1964 that I had planned on using, but it looks like possibly the clutch forks are different and the early fork won't work with the late housing?. So am I going to need to take it all apart after pull it out and use the early one? Had hoped to just pull one out and stick the new stuff in, in one easy operation. Currently a tired 283 w/3 speed and hacked up floor linkage and going to get a 350 w t5 trans . It looks like need to use the bent 56 clutch fork instead of the straight one used in 64. . All going into a 3100.

The 60-62 housing has the throwout fork opening on the passenger's side, and is intended to be used with a hydraulic slave cylinder with no mechanical linkage. The 63-up bellhousing has the same bolt pattern for both the 6 cylinder and V8 engines since they changed to the 3rd-genertation sixes in 63. (230/250/292 engines).

The 283 bellhousing will bolt right up to the 350- - - -just use the same flywheel and starter that's on the 283. The T5 input shaft will probably need some modifications, or you'll need a spacer between the transmission and the bellhousing. "Lugnutz" on this forum is the T-5 guru. He can give you some very good information about how to do the swap successfully.
Jerry

There is virtually no difference between the 55-59 V-8 bellhousing and the 63-67 bellhousing with the exception of the casting number. Simply remove the clutch fork which is held on the ball with a spring clip. Either fork will work on either bellhousing. However, the straight fork will not match up with the 56 clutch linkage. You will likely have to take the old engine & trans out and match up the parts you need for the conversion. As stated, if you have the 56 bellhousing - use it.
Also, there is no physical difference between Chevy small block engines. 265,267,283,302,305,307,327,350, & 400 all used the same basic casting and for the most part the external parts are interchangeable.
Fred

Thanks, I knew that the block was the same up to about 1985 or so Gen 1, then they went metric and made a lot of other changes. I know that will have to match up pulleys and stuff after get the swap done as it has a hashed up power steering. They cut up the frame and welded in some pieces for the steering box that have no idea what it is. If ever goes bad may take a torch to take it out. I think my pulleys will be ok as is on the 350, but never know till is done. It came with an alternator and bracket for it and a power steering pulley, if it matches up. The balancers are different as well as long vs short water pump. Attached a couple pictures of the steering box. ( I think)

The steering box appears to be a GM Saganaw box from a mid 60's to 70's car.
Fred

Maybe same as column? which is Olds Cutlass from about 63-5 no later. from the steering wheel.
Will the bent fork work with the 64 bellhousing ball stud?

Yep

I've always been intrigued at the idea of mounting that Saginaw box on top of the frame rail ahead of the axle, rotated 90 degrees so the Pitman arm hangs down right beside the frame rail. There are 4 wide splines in the Pitman arm that prevent it being clocked incorrectly in the original application. On the race cars we built with lots of steering linkage alterations, we would take a 3-cornered file and eliminate those wide splines, allowing the Pitman arm to be installed in any position we wanted. If the Pitman runs close to the frame, a lot less monkey motion will be required to get the steering input to the spindle, right?
Jerry