The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 350 engine

I have this 350 stock engine available to me for nothing. The 283 engine I pulled out is going to take a lot of work, complete rebuild. So how many problems am I going to run into changing the truck over to the 350? Seeing as it would still not be a stock setup I may opt to go with a newer automatic behind It. I know the motor and trany mounts would have to be changed. Or should I just wait to see if a 265 pops up somewhere for a reasonable price?
This is for my 1955 3200 series 2.

The only "correct" engine for your truck would be a 1955 year 265, since that was the only year the Chevy V8 was produced without an integral oil filter. The 55 filter was a bypass unit similar to the one used on stovebolt sixes. 56 and up engines, 265 and 283, had a canister-type filter at the driver's side of the bellhousing area. The chances of finding a 60+ year old engine that doesn't need a total rehab or hasn't been rebuilt multiple times already will be somewhere between slim and none. Then there's cylinder heads- - - -"period-correct" heads will need to be made before 1960 to have the correct spacing for the valve cover bolts. Once again- - - -rebuildable heads are scarce.

Swapping to the 350 gives you a much bigger pool of suitable engines, and an automatic trans with overdrive and/or a locking torque converter will make the truck a lot more highway-friendly and give better gas mileage as well.
Jerry

Thanks
Actually depending on what part of the country you live in and how friendly you are, you can find some around. I do know where an original un-rebuilt 265 is, but its not a friendly price at the moment. And I'm kind of on a budget, this will be my own personal driver.
A 350 for free, that I know the history of it is tilting the scale in that direction. I'm not looking for a show quality restoration, just looking for a good driver that could be easily returned to stock if need be. I'm trying to find out the pitfalls or advantages, and what I would need to be wary about. Like what about clearances for exhaust pipes, starter, radiator, distributor, am I going to have to change these things? I'm sure someone has done this, I see them all the time. PM me if this is not the place to ask about changing engines.

Lee,
If you took the 283 out, the 350 should should bolt right in place.

What year model is the 350? If it was built around 1986 and newer it will have a one piece rear main seal and a balanced flywheel. Other than that it should bolt right into place.

I was under the impression that there would be problems with clearance on this model truck in the starter area. Could have been told wrong. Its always easier to ask someone who already has done it.

I put a 350 in my 59 Suburban, (replaced the 235 6-cyl) and did not have any issues. My 58 2-ton has a 327 in it, no issues.

The only tight spot will be the HEI distributor cap being close to the firewall. You already have a small block V-8 in there, you are replacing with another small block with the same outer dimensions, just more cubic inches. You should not have any different clearances than you do now.

The external dimensions of virtually all small block V8's built before the center-bolted valve covers came into use are identical. There's even bolt holes for the 4-point motor mount setup that would have been original to your truck. If you have a V8 in there now, a 350 ought to be a bolt-in swap, using the same mounts, bellhousing, etc. as the 283. If you choose to use the HEI distributor, massaging the firewall a bit with a big dead blow mallet might be required, but maybe not. Good luck!
Jerry

The starter mounts to the bellhousing on your truck. It would use the same flywheel for the 350 providing it is the earlier engine as mentioned previously. The dampener would be larger on the 350 which may require some pulley changes. You will need to use the short water pump that came on the 283 to line up the pulleys and give the correct clearance between the fan and radiator.
Fred

If you use the motor mounts that bolt to the front of the block, it's usually necessary to notch the brackets to clear the 350 balancer. That's about a 10-minute operation with a Sawzall or a torch, however, and it doesn't compromise the strength of the mounts.
Jerry

Thank you
That will save me some time up front, That's what I needed to know.

For a 350 to be a direct drop/bolt in it will need to have the front motor mount holes and I believe they stopped doing that at the factory around 1971 or 72...am I right Jerry?

Mike B