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| | | Forums66 Topics128,120 Posts1,056,649 Members48,450 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 120 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 120 | My Uncle in Wisconsin has what he says is a '48 or '49 Suburban. No title and no VIN plate. He will give it to me for no $$. What clues will tell me the difference between the '48 and '49 ?? Skinnedknuckles.
1 1951 Chev Panel with a 350 small block, automatic tranny. 1 2004 Chev 2500 HD pickup... stock 1 1950 Chev 5 window pickup; 261 c.i. engine, 4 on the floor.
With lots of time and money, any Stovebolt can be restored.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Hope this helps, Skinnedknuckles http://www.1954advance-design.com/A-D_factoids/1948.htmlhttp://www.1954advance-design.com/A-D_factoids/1949.htmlgrill and "back splash" colors (see pages, above) hood emblem composition: die cast metal in 1948, or, chrome plated steel (1949) inside door handles pushes to open (1948), or, pulls to open (1949) headliner bow screwed-on in 1948 (and in early 1949), or, "floating bow" (in late 1949) 3-speed transmission: floor-shifter (1948), or, column shifter (1949) Some/all of the above features might be nicely illustrated in this Stovebolt.com Tech Tip: Stovebolt Spotting Guide -- 1947-1955st | | | | | Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 120 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 120 | Tim: Thank you so much for the prompt reply. I have not seen the vehicle in person yet. I will get my Uncle to look for the differences and take some pics to send to me. And..... after removing numerous rusted Clutchhead bolts from my '51 Panel, I should probably change my screen name from Skinnedknuckles to Bloodyknuckles. 
1 1951 Chev Panel with a 350 small block, automatic tranny. 1 2004 Chev 2500 HD pickup... stock 1 1950 Chev 5 window pickup; 261 c.i. engine, 4 on the floor.
With lots of time and money, any Stovebolt can be restored.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Bloodyknuckles,
Keep those clutch-head screws/bolts/hardware - if you do not plan to reuse them, some of us collect them (for the benefit of our trucks, and for future generations to see/admire).
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 120 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 120 | I used the proper clutchhead drivers to remove them. Some removed with ease. Some required copious amounts of rust penetrant. And some broke off even after repeated loosening and tightening. Seems like the best rust penetrant that I've used lately is AC Delco Rust Penetrant and Rust Inhibitor. It just works better than all the "blaster" formulas, WD and brake fluid. As far as I know, the AC Delco product is only available at GM and Chevrolet parts counters.
So after all the skinned and bloody knuckles combined with huge doses of patience, I plan on re-using the clutchhead bolts whenever I can.
1 1951 Chev Panel with a 350 small block, automatic tranny. 1 2004 Chev 2500 HD pickup... stock 1 1950 Chev 5 window pickup; 261 c.i. engine, 4 on the floor.
With lots of time and money, any Stovebolt can be restored.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Good, they should be reused, if possible. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 120 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2014 Posts: 120 |
1 1951 Chev Panel with a 350 small block, automatic tranny. 1 2004 Chev 2500 HD pickup... stock 1 1950 Chev 5 window pickup; 261 c.i. engine, 4 on the floor.
With lots of time and money, any Stovebolt can be restored.
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