The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop paint advice needed

I am looking at painting my 53 one ton sometime this spring, so this is not an urgent concern, but I'd like to get any advice and suggestions about what paint to use.

I have already painted the underside of the cab and the firewall with Sherwin Williams Acrylyd Enamel (which is a catalyzed enamel) that was special mixed to match the original color of Burgundy Maroon, a color only available in 1953. It cost $400 per gallon!

I would like to paint with a single stage urethane, I don't really like the base/clear coat look. Our local parts store sells Nason, but I would be willing to order something online. I just don't know enough about automotive paint to know what is good and what is not worth spraying.

I'm not too concerned about exactly matching the paint I've already put on, I figure no one will see the two colors together. But do I need to do anything special?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Tim

Tim,

Do you have a PPG dealer nearby?

Their Omni line is less expensive than their Concept DCC line (replacement for the excellent Destar line). Both are single-stage two-part acrylic urethane.

Omni seems to be "thinner" than DCC - less coverage per qt/gal.

There is no such thing as "good, cheap paint".
There are NO shortcuts in buying paint.

Do not buy second tier paint... you will think it's cheaper per gallon, except you will end up using more paint because the second tier brands are [censored] thin.

You could look for a good single stage urethane as it will dry shiny as you mentioned. I like BASF UNO for example, but you can take your pick. Just don't cheap out on paint after all the work it takes to get it ready for paint.

I,m not especially looking for cheap paint, but with a nine foot pickup bed I'm assuming I will need a minimum of two gallons of paint (plus reducer and hardener plus primer) to get a good coat on everything. I realize good paint is worth buying, but if it was $400 a gallon 8 years ago I can;t imagine what it is now!

What I'm really interested in is finding out what has worked out well for those who painted their own truck. And things/brands to avoid. I'm planing on going with a single stage urethane over (probably) epoxy base. I want to get good enough coverage for wet sanding and buffing.

As far as cost? What the heck, I've already gone way over my (theoretical) budget on this, what's a few dollars more.

Tim

I just painted mine with single stage urethane and it was very reasonable. Purchased all the paint from summit racing.

Check out my Suburban (in my signature) - single stage urethane

We used Nason and we are happy with the results. The cab had been painted with Centari some years ago so we took a piece of the grill to the paint shop and they used some type of device to get a reading to allow them to match the color.

To do the box, we used 2 quarts of color plus activator and hardener. We had enough left over to do one of the doors.

PPG shop line is good single stage urethane paint. and they can use the old paint codes.
the modern paint covers better then the older style paints you don't need as much paint
to get the same coverage, and a good hvlp gun will waste lees paint also, you wan the paint
on the sheet metal not in the air

I agree with evey thing 513600 posted.

However, there are a few "lines" of PPG single stage urethane auto paint.

Omni seems to be a little "thinner" than Concept DCC.
Omni is a little less expensive than Concept DCC.

A "good" hvlp gun can/should save paint/money. Check out the volumn rating of the gun.

Also, here are two products that I felt were superior.
Made by Evercoat, one being Feather Fill, which is a high build primer surfacer.
The other is is Rage Extreme or Rage Ultra, which are superior body filler. You use this stuff and I gaurentee you will throw your bondo away.

As usual, good advice from sstock.

Some advice, perhaps unneeded:
- clean/wash the metal (to bare and oil free)
- spray on the epoxy primer
- sand as suggested by product sheet
- then, use a compatible filler
- sand as suggested by product sheet
- then use a compatible primer surfacer
- sand as suggested by product sheet
- wipe clean with suggested solvent, twice
- final-coat spray
- color "sand"/polish within the "window" suggested by the product sheet (the longer you wait, the harder it gets)

Listen to the pros, if they post corrections to any of the above.

Thanks to everyone. I.m going to go to the local paint supplier (only an hour away) and find out what he has available. Also, I have some of the old paint (only 12 years old) which is still good, so I am going to paint a small part and take it along for a color match. Now that winter has finally arrived in central Missouri, it's going to be quite awhile before I can do any actual painting, but I figure it may take me some time to get together everything I need for this.
One other question. I'm planing on putting the cab on the frame before I paint it, so as to avoid damage when I move it. Any thoughts pro or con on that? I've got the bottom of the cab and the firewall painted already.

Tim

Tim,

Good Luck.

Please keep us informed with posts, facts, and photos.

I'm curious if you find a modern offset for the maroon. I want to paint my 49 Cape Maroon, but am having a very hard time finding a modern offset, although I haven't jumped in head first on talking to jobbers yet. I'm likely a year+ away from paint. I want to plaint bc/cc, just because I have had experience with that system.

aggie jon,

Have you contacted PPG color library for 1949 Chevrolet Truck Cape Maroon?
Ditzler/PPG: 50113
Dupont: 64539-M
(phone number is in a Tech Tip, here)

Have you check with AutoColorLibrary?
http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1949-Chevrolettruck-pg01.jpg