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1 members (Ponchogl),
142
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Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,152 Posts1,057,011 Members48,460 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 2 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 2 | i am pretty new to restoring and i was wondering the best way to fix the holes in the side of my bedsides where the fender bolts up to it. should i buy new or weld in new panels? how should i weld them in? thanks alot | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 243 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 243 | Depending on how bad they are, im having mine welded up, my body man said he would like to keep and save as much of the original metal as poss. its alot heavier that the jap parts.... good luck with your build | | | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,445 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,445 | put a bolt through the hole, cut it off and weld and grind.
Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 15 | do the bolts like rusty rod suggested, works great. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2000 Posts: 804 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2000 Posts: 804 | I am confused, do you want to weld the holes up because you don't need them (not going to run fenders) or do you want to not have bolts showing in the inside of the bed?
There is NO way you are going to weld those holes up with a "stud" sticking out to mount the fender without showing a horrible "dent" on the inside once the nut is tightened.
What exactly are you after?
Brian
1948 Chevy Pickup
Chopped and sectioned
owned since 1974 when I was 15.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,233 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,233 | And on top of that, the new bed sides are not all Jap metal! Mine were as heavy as the original. Infact the whole bed kit was excellent quality. The time and money saved over trying to fix a old one was well worth it. I got every nut, bolt, wood, front, back, side, crossmember, chain, cover, and what ever else I needed for $1200. Its as straight as an arrow was very easy to put together. Joe | | | | | Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 43 Member | | Member Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 43 | Joe H
Where did you get all of that for $1200? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 2 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 2 | hi . the problem i have here is the bed sides are rust next the bolt holes. so i have to either weld a patch over it , which would look like crap. or i need to cut the hole panel out to replace it. i am keeping the truck original. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | I have to agree with Joe. When I weighed the time to patch , grind smooth , and re-drill the holes brand new boxsides at $425.00 each turned out to be the better way. They were nearly identical to the originals and perfectly straight. Wavy bedsides can really take away from an otherwise nice truck. One of these days I plan on using the old bedsides for a trailer.
Curt B.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | |
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