The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline front axle spindle (Knuckle) issues

I have enjoyed looking through the forums for tips and ideas. I have one that I doesn't look like it has been addressed.
I am rebuilding a 1954 Chevy 3100. Right now I am working on the front axle. I noticed that the floating bushings have a small amount of play in the bore. I don't see any fix for this other than replacing the assembly. Has anyone tried over sizing the spindle bushing bore and pressing in a permanent bushing than machine it to accept a floating bushing? Of course with this I would have to drill the pressed bushing to allow grease to pass through to the floating bushing.
Another thought is to find a compatible pressed in king pin bushing from a larger truck.
Has anyone had any luck with this issue?

Spindles aren't that hard to find, especially for half ton axles. Most of the machining fixes would be cost-prohibitive when compared to a quick Ebay search or a post in the "parts wanted" forum here. There are enough self-appointed engineering experts who think the only way to "restore" a stovebolt is to butcher up a perfectly good frame and install an IFS to keep the traditionalists supplied with inexpensive throwaway front axles and other steering parts.
Jerry

I have bought a few NOS knuckles/spindles (on eBay), but they seem to be rare.
Post a Want Ad in the Swap Meet (here). I got one NOS knuckle/spindle here (maybe 15 years ago).

If you are willing to buy a used knuckle/spindle (or, you have to buy a used knuckle/spindle), be sure to get an agreement that you get your money back if it is not useable. Many/some are wallowed-out where the bushings seat. Bad ones were quite common even back in the 60s/70s (I've been collecting them since then).

A few members have posted part numbers for (Moog ?) king pin repair sets with over-sized bushings (with/without over-sized king pins). The worn-out knuckle/spindle would have to be machined for these bushings.

I do not know the significance of the difference, there are different part numbers for 1/2 ton steering knuckles/spindles:
1946-1950
1951-1953
1954-1959 (I think 1959)

IPre '68 Dave (I think) and others have posted that the difference can be "overcome".

If someone has the motivation, and the parts, a Tech Tip (with "modern" part numbers) would be very helpful.

It appears MOOG part number Part Number: 115371-05363533 has oversized bushings. I will have to take measurements once the king pins are out and everything is cleaned up.

1941-50 spindles are the same as 1951-59 except the two bottom backing plate mounting bolt holes are 7/16" and the 1951-59 are 1/2".
These are easily drilled out to work.

Help me understand, Dave (other readers can ignore this silly question)

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/parts/1929_54/381.htm

Is '43-'45 not listed due to WWII?

Thanks

That is the way I have always understood it.

Dad used to tell a story about the car dealers in Nashville who suddenly didn't have any cars to sell during the war when all the car factories converted to making trucks, tanks, airplanes and guns. They hosted a big fancy dinner meeting for the independent shop owners in the area, with the finest food and booze available, and asked them to "Please teach us how to make a profit fixing cars!" They had run their service departments at a break-even or a slight loss for years, doing mostly warranty work, and they didn't know how to survive without the sales force generating the profits! The only passenger cars that were manufactured from early 1942 to 1946 were a few vehicles that were used as staff cars for high-ranking officers, etc. Those cars had virtually no chrome or other embellishments- - - -just plain-Jane transportation!
Jerry

I asked a similar question a while back, and that discussion led me back to this old thread.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/977880/3.html

Bolter here seemed to have found a Moog part # from another application that works...if you are willing to invest in having the spindles bored oversize.

Thanks, JW51

That's the thread I dimly remembered. That poster gives some dimensions, too.

Tim;

Now that I read that thread again, it seems to me that part might correct the wallowed out spindle issue (oversized OD bushing), but not the wallowed out axle (standard size kingpin).

Is that the way you read it?

I just did a little shopping on ebay- - - -there are several sets of piloted expandable reamers available that would cost less than having a machine shop fit oversized bushings to a set of spindles, and you'd have the tooling available to salvage some of those worn ones. With a good long-handled tap wrench and a sturdy vise, reaming the holes oversize and keeping them aligned isn't a very challenging job. Then a smaller reamer is used to fit the kingpins to the replacement bushings.

For a really precision fit, the same mandrels I use on my Sunnen hone to fit piston pin bushings can be used for kingpin bushings.
Jerry

Before I further hijack the original poster's thread:

1) That same older thread I linked to above has a procedure from pre-68 dave where Loctite and an oven help take up spindle slack.
2) There are a couple very nice Tech Tips on the site which discuss kinpin replacement and spindle bushings. Worth reading.

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Since it's on my to-do list anyway, and we keep linking to a thread from 2013, I will volunteer to carefully document and share my misadventures in 1/2 ton AD kingpins. Reaming, honing, sourcing parts, etc. I know I have significant play particular on passenger side....but haven't yet torn things apart to see if it's in the axle or spindle or both.

Hopefully get to that before spring time. But if someone beats me to it....all the better.

Can your eyeballs tell you where the bulk of wear is at (axle or spindle)....if you watch it while a helper moves the pushes on the wheel to create the movement? I know this is no substitute for tear down and inspection. Just curious if it might help get a guy thinking down the right path.

I will be checking my spindles today to see if the regular bushings will fit. The bushings had to be pressed out so I am hoping everything will work out.

Well I ended up with one good and one bad spindle. I have another axle that has a descent spindle so i will be using that. I will be using some loctite sleeve retainer to keep the bushings from rotating and hopefully prevent any wear in the spindle bore.

Well after my 2nd axle was disassembled I was able to come up with 2 spindles that were ok. I used loctite to hold the floating bushings in place to hopefully prevent wear on the spindle bore. I expect this truck to be in the family for a long time.
Now on to the next step on installing a sway bar.