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#1245909 12/06/2017 1:01 AM
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,190
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,190
I have a Makita electric drill. It's about 25 years old. It's a red one; back then the red tools were the "professional" models and the blue ones were the cheaper "homeowner" models. The problem I have with it is that it is really noisy. If sounds and vibrates like it has bronze bushings that are spinning in the housing. Taking it apart, I see all the bearings are sealed ball bearings and are in good shape - they spin easily and there's no play. The gears look good - no chipped or missing teeth. The case isn't cracked or broken. The brushes are worn, but there seems to be plenty of room left on them and the springs seem OK.

When running, there is some arcing on the brushes. It's variable speed, so noise and vibration increases with speed.

Question: Do you think this is a brush problem? Can you dress the brushes somehow to get her working like new again? Any ideas to track down the problem?

Fran really likes the drill as she finds our other drills too heavy and bulky. If this one can be fixed, I stand a better chance of finding a drill when I need one.


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,036
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,036
How's the fit of the bearings on the shaft? If it's too loose, the shaft can "walk" around the ID of the bearings. But that's usually intermittent and can be stopped sometimes by smacking the tool while it's running.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,190
All four bearings seem to fit really well on their shafts and in the case. I gave it a few smacks as you suggested; didn't help.


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,036
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,036
Originally Posted by Gord&Fran
Igave it a few smacks as you suggested; didn't help.

Dang. That's too bad. I often rely on percussive maintenance. Sometimes it works. grin


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
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worn gears .... put a bit of heavy grease on gears and try again

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
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B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
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If Bill's grease on gears test does not quiet drill.

My guess is bearings. Sealed bearings are hard to evaluate or test. The age and increase in noise with speed, indicate bearings IMO. You would have to take them out and rig up a way to spin them to hear the noise. I realize you say they are good. You say gears are good and etc. But logic says something is bad and you didn't notice. So I have to give my opinion.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Sometimes an armature with a few shorted windings will develop a hammering type noise caused by internal stresses. Look closely at the commutator where the brushes ride. If the leading edge of one or more commutator bars shows deterioration or burning and the brushes have a ragged looking edge, that's a pretty good indicator of winding problems. Back when we rebuilt our own starters and DC generators, just about every good shop had a "growler" for testing armature windings. I've still got one stashed away somewhere, but I haven't used it in years.

You can spin-test a sealed bearing by holding it against a wire wheel buffer on a bench grinder.
Jerry



"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: Jul 2000
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Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,190
Yup. It's the gears. Took out the shaft with the chuck and the big gear on it. Closed up the case, so the motor was in the case by itself. Plugged it in and tested it: the motor ran smoothly. Reinstalled the chuck shaft and put lots of grease on the gears. It ran a bit better, but still not well.

You can buy replacement brushes and bearings, but not gears. I'd rather repair than replace, but if parts aren't available there's not much you can do. ohwell



Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 843
Y
yar Offline
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Mar 2010
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"You can buy replacement brushes and bearings, but not gears."

That's not necessarily true Gord. If that were mine I'd check Boston Gear and some of the other manufacturers. Also making gears from scratch is not out of the question. It does require a milling machine, dividing head or other indexing attachment, and the correct gear cutter for the gear you are making. Yours is not a lost cause.


Ray
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,190
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,190
Thanks, Ray. That's too much work; I writing the thing off.

She's getting a new drill for Christmas! Light weight, rechargeable and key-less chuck.


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed

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