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#124459 02/07/2007 3:00 AM
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I ran a search and did not find anything specific on this subject. I did some touch up work on a non stovebolt today with a paint that had a lot of metalic in it. After wiping it off with lacquer thinner 2 times because it sagged and the metals puddled, I fogged it very lightly and let is rest about 10 minutes and did the same thing again several more times and got it to where it was acceptable. The paint is PPG DCC the same paint I always use, but I have never encountered this problem with non metalic paints. I certainly would not want to try and paint a complete vehicle
like this. Anyone have any explanitions or advice?


Life is like a roll of toilet paper, the nearer the end the faster it goes.




1949 Chevy 6400
1931 Chevy Firetruck



#124460 02/07/2007 3:07 AM
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Very light to transparent 1st coat. Let it tack for 15-20 min then hit it again. Wait 15 min. between coats.

#124461 02/07/2007 4:50 AM
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This was found on the Dupont website in their technical manual concerning bc/cc systems when using high metallic base colors.

Apply two medium wet coats or to hiding. Allow each coat to flash dull/dry. For high metallic colors, use a mist coat in conjunction with the final coat for best flake control.

Hope this helps.


Ralph Davis
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Old trucks never die, they just find a new home.
#124462 02/07/2007 5:12 AM
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I always do a mist coat at the end to even out the metalic. It seems to help. I always use bc/cc now. Dont know how well it would work on enamel though.

#124463 02/07/2007 2:20 PM
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Thanks for the response guys. Sounds like I was on the right track. It's just a process that can't be rushed.


Life is like a roll of toilet paper, the nearer the end the faster it goes.




1949 Chevy 6400
1931 Chevy Firetruck



#124464 02/07/2007 3:24 PM
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Also it helps to shake the paint gun now & then to keep the metallic mixed well. Brian


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#124465 02/08/2007 2:59 PM
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I have found it to be a problem when using gravity feed guns and the flakes seem to settle to the bottom of cup.


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#124466 02/09/2007 9:06 PM
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C
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Also try keeping a couple marbles in gun to keep metallics floating

Dan

#124467 02/09/2007 10:34 PM
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Make sure you spray at the proper temp. I tried spraying metallic one time when it was too cold and the heater was broken in the booth I was using and it was a nightmare. Also when you fog your last coat keep your gun at least 12" away from the surface and spray diagonally. Works great!

#124468 02/10/2007 9:42 AM
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may want to add a fast dry thinner will kick paint faster

#124469 02/10/2007 4:15 PM
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fireout1, It was too cold, I was outside touching up a panel on the motor home.
And chev4t6 the marbles sound like a good idea.
Fortunatly the antique vehicles I restore did not use metalic paints and with luck I may not have to fool with it again
Thanks to all for the feedback.


Life is like a roll of toilet paper, the nearer the end the faster it goes.




1949 Chevy 6400
1931 Chevy Firetruck



#124470 02/10/2007 5:34 PM
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I have used steel balls in the paint cup
when spraying "metal flake" and NOT in metallic
paint..spraygun technique is the key here..
Its very easy to take a spraygun and get as many
as a dozen different colors using the same cup of paint...Fan adjustment, air pressure, fluid tip
and needle adjustment, air cap choice, and this is
provided the paint material was reduced, or thinned
to start with...Your metallic's found in B/C C/C are
micro chips and are plastic, and will stay suspended
in the cup, just as acrylic lacquer will...however, if You set Your spraygun down for an half-hour or so, then it would be recommended to stir the paint in the cup again...and as previously said, Your thinner should be matched to the temperatures You are working in, to flow properly...Bill B


1952 Chevy 3104 Shortbed 5-window
Remember; Politicians and diapers both need to be changed
often, and for the same reason.....

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