Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
dari, It's because of your 3600 chassis. No one, at a reasonable cost has parts for your brakes. I've been there done that. If you'd rather switch to Disc brakes.
I'm currently switching. It's taken me several years now. I'm a better Electrician than Mechanics. But I've been able to install everything so far except for some welding on the rear end.
You might check out Jim Carter's part ME131, '46 - '52 rear. On the other hand, I found wheel cylinders for my '53 one ton at the local FLAPS. Still pricey, but less than the specialty resto places. The tricky part is finding parts numbers that aren't GM specific.
Tim
I am currently digging back in to a 1953 3800 (one ton) with a nine foot bed. I've owned it since 1979, and drove it until 1982 (or so). My wife got me involved in restoring it back in 2002, got the body removed and the frame redone, then things came up. Now I am retired and starting again. If anyone is interested I have photos on Imagur ( https://timwhiteblues.imgur.com/ ). I live way back in the woods in the Ozarks on 40 acres at the end of a 2 1/2 mile private road.
I found one that says it fits 47-52 rear 3/4 and front 1 ton with a 1 3/8 bore size does the bore size make that much of a dif if I'm not really hauling anything? the only thing I could figure is the design of the brake assembly
If one gets larger than stock wheel cylinders, foot pedal will have more power, master might not have enough volume, smaller wheel cylinders will give foot pedal less power, use less fluid. Different size master will give opposite results.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
I'm in the same boat with you. I need pads for the rear brakes on my '51 3600...and at this point it seems my only option is to send the shoes off to Jim Carter and have them reline them. Anybody got any other options? I don't have the cash to do a swap right now.
There are plenty of OEM brake linings of all shapes and sizes on Ebay- - - -and lots of rivets. Relining brake shoes has been done for decades without a lot of special equipment- - - - -all it takes is a drill bit, a hammer, a flat-tipped punch, and something to use for an anvil. Even removing bonded linings only takes a torch to heat the shoes and loosen the glue. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Thanks for your response. Actually, these shoes are not riveted, they are bonded...so, I'm kinda stuck. They are also 12x2, which I cannot find anywhere. Any other ideas would be great!
Did you read the last part of Jerry's post? Heat up the shoes to get the lining off. In a pinch, you could use an angle grinder and grind the lining off, but that would be messy. Even if they didn't have holes for rivets, those are doable as well. Just clamp the new linings in place and drill thru the holes. I find it hard to believe that you can't find 12x2 linings. You could even buy bigger and cut them down. Expand your search limits.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
