Evening! Tonight I decided to install the door opening weatherstrip I bought several years ago (1951 3104, page 1-7 of Shop Manual). I have read they are notoriously difficult to pull through the metal channel that is spot-welded to the frame. One poster years ago recommended cutting a short section of weatherstrip (I cut 1 inch), and sliding it through the channel to make sure the channel is clear of crimping and old weatherstrip remnant, after you've cleaned it out. Great idea.
Mine were so clear that I thought, this will be a piece of cake. A few minutes later I tried silicone spray (I think this will not damage the Taiwanese rubber??). Then I decided to try the old standby, a liquid soap / water solution. Then I decided to try an alternate method that ultimately worked. I pushed one "lip" of the weatherstrip into one side of the channel and used a paint-can opener (from a hardware or paint store), to push the other lip into the other side of the channel. I don't know if it was any faster, but I'm pretty sure it was much less frustrating. The worst "pinch point" was where the front pillar (hinge pillar) meets the dashboard. There ain't a lot of room to fit that rubber strip. Tomorrow I'm going to use a razor blade to trim part of the rubber so it fits better along that roughly 6" section. It won't show, because that part of the strip would ordinarily fit (verrrry tightly) into the crevice formed where the dash and pillar meet.
I have a '52 and I am thinking about using the 47-49 style of windlace since my '52 tracks are rusted beyond reasonable repair. I don't have the 47-49 metal windless retainers so I plan on just screwing right through the rubber, into the cab without the metal retainers. This truck is a resto-mod so originality doesn't matter to the guy who I am building it for. For the headliner, I also plan on using the 47-49 screw down center strip in place of the '50-55.1 floating style if I can figure out how. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Hey there MNS and Carl. My understanding is the weatherstrip that goes on the door itself is held on by adhesive. Is that correct? If you've found an adhesive you like, what is it? Thanks.
Ditto on the 3M. Been around for many years. Even the pros use it. ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Ah god, I'm glad this job is done on my 53, I hated it, what a pita. I ended up trimming the area around the dash too. It went to harbor freight and bought these plastic pry tools to be used the way you used the paint can opener except it doesnt damage the windlace. https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html
PS, the guy that came up with the idea of cutting a small piece of windlace to test for pinch points in the tract should of been Knighted. Brilliant idea, because I think after it was installed on the assembly line somebody came around with a rubber hammer and intentionally hit the rubber and tract in several places to lock it in.
Last edited by sstock; 10/27/20172:20 PM.
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
Just completed the windlace install after a long delay.....because I dreading sliding the windlace around the door. There is a you tube video showing the push install method istead of the slide install method.
After trying both methods found the push install method was much faster and easier. Installed both sides by myself in less than 30 minutes. Using a nylon trim tool and 90* bent hook tool.
