Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
7 members (cmayna, Gone, 3800GUY, Rusty Rod, Hugh63c10, SmalltownTRKGuy, 1 invisible),
96
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,187 Posts1,057,312 Members48,468 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 105 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 105 | I have a 1951 Chevrolet 3600 that I posted on this forum when I bought it. I have been moving a ton with my new job so the truck went to storage. I finally got it back and have decided the direction I want to go with the project. I have decided to go with a 4x4 conversion much like the old napco. I love those trucks. I know the original napco stuff is hard to find and if you do its $$$. What I would like to do is go with front and rear axles around the same factory width. I know the first fifty people are going to say just do a frame swap with a newer 4x4. I'm just not interested in doing that. I have seen a lot of guys use axles from a k5 or something like that. They only thing about that I don't like is the front is wider than the rear. So a lot of guys wind up with wheels nicely tucked under the rear and the wheels in the front that stick outside the fenders a few inches. I could use different offset wheels but I would like to avoid this if I could. I know I'm getting picky but if I was finding it easy to find the solution I wouldn't be asking for help. I am hoping someone else here has done something similar. I'm not doing serious four wheeling. I'm not putting the truck way in the air. I would just like to have a 4x4 so I can use this in all weather and camping with my son. If anyone has any suggestion for axle selection that would be great. Thanks for your help. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,309 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,309 | Take a look at early Bronco axles. They are narrow. They are 5 lug, but you may be able to find 6 lug axles which fit or have them made to fit.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 105 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 105 | Thanks 52Carl. According to what I'm looking at the axle width on the early bronco is 6" narrower than the factory driveline of my truck. I could make that up will a deeper dish wheel. Which I prefer anyway. They seem pretty cost effective also. I am looking into the disc brake conversion for the front of that axle. Looks to be 5 or 6 hundred bucks for the conversion. Thanks for the help. I'm going to hit a few junk yards and see what I can dig up then move on to the internet if nothing turns up. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 | I have a '50 3600 and swapped out my rear axle. The rear axle on the 3600 is considerably wider than the 3100 models.
This was a perfect fit, as far as width. I used new U-bolts and a heavy duty spring plate- reversed the plate so that it rides on top of the axle. Heavy duty 2 inch wide spring perches, spring plates & shock mounts are available at Ruffstuff Specialties that will fit this axle.
1999 S-10 Blazer ZR-2 It's 5-lug, GM metric. It must be a "ZR-2" for proper width.
It is the correct width, has disc brakes, an 8.5/8.6 inch ring gear and all ZR-2's were 3.73:1 with the G-80 locker. I removed my locker, as I think the G-80 unit is too troublesome.
There are a few pics of my installation in my link below. I have no idea what you might use as a front axle, but am wondering whether the front axle from the same truck would be a good fit?
~ Dave 1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission | | | | | Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 | Ok. There is not many ways to pull this off. But I have more than once. No factory front axle even comes close to working. So a bit a machine work is needed.. The t-case is a bolt on affair with a sm420. The steering depends on how you want it. Gearing is also a custom job. Any 37-55.1 3/4-1-1/2 ton can be made 4x4 with very little trouble. When I get privelidges I Will post some pics... B.C. Truck farm Man.. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 105 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 105 | Thanks for all the help guys. I am finishing pulling a set of narrow track dana 44 out of a jeep wagoneer tom. From my measurement it should work and is a good solid axle. I got the front and rear together for 200 bucks. So hopefully I'm going the right route. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 | The 27 inch spring center width won't allow you to put any front end under the springs. I have dozens of jeep and scout front axles. None Will work. The pumpkin is under the passenger spring.... uggg. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 | So. All wide track front 4x4 axles. Except some cj jeeps . And Suzuki utilities have the same 32 Inch wide pumpkin spacing. A 56inch wide flange to flange front Scout 2. Is no different than a chevy one ton d60. Most of the latter solid fronts go with a 37 width. Think Ford f350 and dodge coil spring fronts. The only way to get a half ton through one ton to bolt in to an early 27 wide spring front is to cut the long side down. Simple... | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 105 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 105 | Thanks for the advice Truckfarm72. I will find out tom if it will still work for me. I am not using the leaf spring suspension anymore. I'm installing a four link front and rear. The dif is on the drivers side on this one. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 | Your first post said a napco type conversion. A 4 link swap is nothing like that. You even mention the cost of original Napco parts. You should have said... I want a custom 4 link 4x4 swap. That's a different beast. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 | Since I do that for a living on modern trucks. I won't respond any longer. Paying customers get the full on modifications and the knowledge that comes with that. Creating a modern Napco type conversion I Will share for free.. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 105 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 105 | I agree with what you are saying. I guess what I am meaning to say is napco ride height and similar tire size. I'm not turning it into some kind of monster truck. Some of these conversations are just easier over a beer and not through text. the actual suspension geometry will be different yes. It is def going to be a different beast and I'm sure ill make 100 changes along the way based on what will and will not work along the way. I apologize for not explaining myself correctly. I'm trying to build a more modern truck with a original look if that makes sense. Engine will be a 5.3 Chevrolet with a nv4500 to I think a np241 case (still working on that so don't quote me) to my 4 link suspension with air ride for adjustable ride height from cruising to off road. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 | The straight frame of a factory pre 55.1 truck does not allow for an easy 4 link 4x4 swap without considerable height increase. I have done this on willys wagons and trucks. It's best to just start with a jeep TJ rolling frame. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 | I don't want to be a jerk. But I am done with this chat. I am on Pirate. Heavy 4x4 conversions and builds are best done there. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 66 | Also. I joined this group because I have an actual Napco type conversion for a 37-55.1 Chevy 3/4to 1-1/2 ton truck. More or less a bolt in. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Post it in the Parts or Sale forum. Not in this forum.
Welcome to Stovebolt.com
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,441 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,441 | This entire thread should be in the HiPo shop. You are proposing modifications not only to the suspension but also an engine swap and other modifications. This is turning into a tit for tat between you and Truckfarm72. If you want further advice I suggest you ask the Forum Moderator (Sweet) to move this to HiPo and maybe folks will be a little more sympathetic to your build there. Good luck. 
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,418 ODSS Lawman | | ODSS Lawman Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 1,418 | If you wish to keep the discussion on axles, we can leave this thread here. However, if you wish to have a discussion on the entire modification of the drivetrain, send me a PM and I will move this to the HiPo section were you may get better information for what you are trying to accomplish....
SWEET Sergeant At Arms: Old Dominion Stovebolt Society BUNS?!?!?!Where we're going, we don't need no buns.....1950 GMC 450 1951 Chevy 1/2-TonThe GreenMachineIn the Stovebolt Gallery | | |
| |