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| | | | Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 523 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 523 | 46 1/2T, 235 engine, 4 speed. Originally sold as 3 speed but previous owner changed to 4 speed. Judging by the hole in the floor board, this did not change the location of the shift rod.
Today, satisfied engine was running well, made final adjustment to clutch linkage, fired her up and shifted into first gear - mashed (lightly) my knuckles into ash tray. Does anyone know why things aren't a little more friendly?
Bob
BobS46
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,086 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,086 | Maybe the shifter is bent forward a bit. Wouldn't hurt to bend the lever a little toward the back, assuming that there's clearance to the seat (but that's softer than the dash).
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Perhaps shifter from much later truck?
Just bend what you have to suit. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 138 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 138 | One of the best (and cheapest) improvements I made to my '46 was to replace the worn shifter pin that goes in the ball of the shifter that moves the shift forks. Mine was super worn and I replaced it and that tightened up my shifting substantially. I used part of a drill bit (the smooth part) for a replacement pin. I might have seen the idea from an article on Jim Carter's web site where the sell the kit. I didn't need any of the kit parts but the pin which is not included was where my problem was. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | One could also use a roll pin.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 1,456 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 1,456 | Pull it out, heat & bend to the position you like. Clean up & paint it black.
BC
1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 309 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 309 | Switched my '46 3 speed to a four speed. Required a different master brake cylinder mounting bracket and different floor pan. Shift lever position was/is fine. Does your shifter have a lockout on reverse? Straight cut gears with no synchros? Granny first gear? Is your master brake cylinder mounted on a bracket attached to the side of the trans? If so, these transmissions were available in these trucks from factory and your shifter is bent somehow - it'd take some doing, those shift levers are stout. If you've got a synchronized transmission, it's a retrofit of some sort and you're on your own. | | |
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