The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop problems with firing on #3 and #5

Hi guys!

The Blue Funk (see my signature) became difficult to start and was running rough. I checked the fire to the plugs with a tester and found no fire getting to #3 and #5 cylinders. I put on a new cap and leads. No change. Put on a new rotor. No change, except #3 lit the testor constantly, in that the tester did not spark like the other cylinders, it glowed constantly.

I noticed when I pushed on the side of the dizzy near #3 lead placement, I got intermittent fire on #5 cylinder, flashing or sparking like cylinders 1, 2, 4, and 6.

The Blue Funk was running fine after a recent tune up with new points, condenser and plugs, until it became difficult to start and began running rough.

What gives?

Thanks!

You did the new cap and leads. Did you also try new plugs at 3 and 5?

Before you do, might be worth swapping #3 plug into a different cylinder, one that's sparking fine, and see if the symptom follows the plug:

Thanks, JW51.

No, there was no change when plugs were switched.

Now, I noticed there is a minute amount of play in the dizzy shaft. Worn bushings?

No bushing in 216/235/261 distributor (that I have seen/remembered).

Ah! Couldn't be worn bushings!

Thanks, Tim!

Read this thread, including the blog link within. Might need to check out your grease cup/spring/nylon button.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1215442/1.html

Check the point gap in 3-4 places. The shaft may have run-out. If you didn't put a spot of grease on the points the rubbing block can wear down quickly.

Thanks for the link, JW51- it contained a lot of useful information!

I pulled the dizzy, took out the grease plug, spring, and got the Bakelite fiber plug out. The plug had a slight groove where it was up against the shaft. I cleaned everything up, filled the grease plug and reset the points. It was then that I noticed the condenser bracket was not attached to the plate- the screw was too small, so I replaced that.

While hooking everything back up to the dizzy, I noted that the wire connector to the insulator terminal was loose, so I soldered that.

When I removed the dizzy, I had #1 cylinder at TDC, the bee bee on the flywheel at the pointer, the rotor pointing at #1 lead and had marked the positions. I replaced the dizzy and the engine immediately fired up! It's been difficult starting, so this was a nice surprise. I let it run for a few minutes, turned it off, back on, and it started right up again! Firing on all cylinders!

Perhaps the loose condenser or the poor contact with the terminal on the dizzy insulator was the reason for the problems with firing on cylinders # 3 and 5?

But when I went to accelerate, the engine stumbled or hesitated. It starts and idles fine, but bogs down on acceleration. I saw some threads on this problem, so I'm going to check those out.

Thanks for your help, guys!