The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
8 members (Mike B, WICruiser, Youngin' Tut 59, Pete1946, Bizaircon, klhansen, LuckyLee, 1 invisible), 72 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,140
Posts1,056,770
Members48,454
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
Today I am removing the oil pan on my 1948 Chevrolet Truck (motor is a 1962 235ci). Removing the oil pan to replace the gasket on it and also the timing gear cover. Things look really good on the inside, very clean. This motor was re-built sometime after 1962, as it has a new stamp in place of the serial number, that is "DR 6 digit # CAL"

So Question is; I noticed after removing the oil pan, that the End-Caps on each of the Piston Rods seem to have a little bit of play in them, I wasn't expecting that (sorta like they are not tightened down all the way, maybe 1/16" of play) Is that normal? Or should I tighten the 2 nuts on all 6 of the End-Caps to some specific # ft lbs. torque?
Attachments
Motor1.jpg (58.12 KB, 165 downloads)
Motor with oil pan removed

Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 200
1
'Bolter
'Bolter
1 Offline
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 200
Yes, the rod caps may feel excessively loose until the bolts are torqued. They will then have some amount of front to back movement, this is called side clearance. They also have some movement on the journals in an up and down direction, this is called bearing clearance. How much they have of each will need to be checked to see if they are in spec.


We cannot solve our problems today using the same thinking we used when we created them!

Albert Einstein
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,063
Big Bolt Forum Moderator
Big Bolt Forum Moderator
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,063
Are you talking the end cap is loose on the rod, or the rod slides side to side on the crank? As 12 port said, some side to side play is normal. I am assuming this has been running fine and not knocking a bunch? If the rod bearings were loose enough for you to move them up and down, you should have been able to hear them knocking.


Mike
1955 Chevy 6400 ex-flatbed (no bed now!) sold September 2023
In the Stovebolt Gallery
1958 Chevy 6400 flatbed W/dump
In the Stovebolt Gallery
1959 Chevy Suburban Owned for almost 20 years, Daily Driver -- sold May 2016
In the Stovebolt Gallery

Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
It's been running very smooth, no noise at all. I just noticed after I removed the oil pan, that the end cap (bottom of the piston rod) seems like it has some play, over where the flat bearings cover the crankshaft.I can move the bearing up and down maybe 1/16" inch.

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,441
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,441
If the rod or crank can be moved up and down 1/16 of an inch it should have beat the bottom end out the pan. Side to side is an entirely different deal. You can slide the rods slightly in a side to side motion but a 1/16 inch seems a bit much. A ‘62 is a full pressure and insert bearing engine and has torque requirements for rod and main caps.🛠


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,298
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,298
You need to either send us pics or a video of the movement of which you speak, or find a qualified mechanic locally who can take a look and let you know what is going on.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,844
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,844
Please be a little more specific about the direction of movement. If the big ends of the rods can be moved a little forward and aft, like toward the radiator and the flywheel, no problem. 1/16" is WAY too much, however. I'd be more comfortable with less than 1/32" forward/aft movement. Have you measured the actual movement, or are you making a SWAG? Try stacking up feeler gauge blades until you can take up the movement, add them up, and get back to us.

An engine would not run for over 5 minutes with 1/16" up and down clearance on even one connecting rod.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
Hey Jerry, I'm sorry it's not so much that the end cap is moving it's the bearing inside that seems like it has play, up and down between the end cap and the crank. I'm guessing 1/16 but it could be less. The engine ran very smoothly (no strange noises or such) before I took the oil pan off. I'm wondering if there is supposed to be a slight gap for oil or? I'll try and get some close up pics soon.

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
I wouldn't take the chance and with the pan already off I'd certainly Plastigauge it. The Plasti gauge can be found at most parts stores and is cheap. Get some in the 0.001-0.003 range. The sleeve the plastic wire is in has the scale to read what the clearance is. Wipe journal and bearing clean, put a strip of Plasti gauge across the bearing, install and torque to spec, remove and hold the scale up to the flattened plastic. Do NOT turn crank and re-lube bearing before final install. Jerry was a teacher so he can give more lucid instructions I'm sure.


Evan
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,636
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,636
I can't see the engine lasting long if there is any perceptible play up and down. Certainly should be noisy.

There will be some forward and backward movement on the journal, but not sure one could "feel" .002 " movement especially is any oil is on the crank between the bearing and the crank.


Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
Gentleman, I'm back under the engine today. It must have been I was disoriented (laying on dolly), tired from the struggle in getting the oil pan off, or the oil vapors and the oil laden cork bits getting into my eye sockets with each motion of my scraper. There is ZERO up and down movement with the piston rod end-caps. The movement is strictly forward and backward on all 6, like from the radiator back to the flywheel direction. It's not very much play either, like less then 1/16, probably 1/32 in either direction. I surmise from previous messages above, that this is perfectly normal?

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,844
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,844
Yes, that's normal. Your description previously didn't make good nonsense- - - -vertical clearance for oil is approximately the thickness of a strand of hair- - - -1 to 2 thousandths of an inch, ideally, and it can only be measured with something called "Plastigauge" that's available at good parts stores, or by making precision measurements of the rod bearing and crankshaft journal with micrometers. There must be a slight end play of the rod to allow for heat expansion of the big end as the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0