The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
5 members (GMCJammer51, DuckRancher, Peggy M, 49nut, 1 invisible), 118 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,110
Posts1,056,245
Members48,437
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1239069 10/13/2017 3:16 PM
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
Removing the oil pan on my 235ci. Engine is mounted on the chassis so I'm doing this laying down. All bolts have been removed but it just seems to be glued in place, can't pull it off. I've tried tapping on the sides with a rubber mallet, also I noticed a little access hole in the block that gets you some edge on the lip of the pan, this is just below the Generator area. I tried tapping with a metal rod thru that hole on the lip of the pan, but it just starts to bend the lip of the pan, but the pan isn't coming off. Do I need to really hulk smash thru there or any tips on getting this thing removed? Appreciate the help.

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
I have used a thin/strong putty knife.

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Might just help to know what year your working on. As Tim said a strong putty knife and a hammer. I can’t think of anything holding it other than the PO put some really sticky silicone on it for a gasket sealer.🛠


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
Thanks Tim! I just did some scraping with a putty knife around that front left corner, got it there to start then was able to put a larger screw driver in the corner and leverage and it just popped off!! Whew, now the fun begins right?

Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
Tim, it's interesting the 2 gaskets at the front and rear of the pan are cork, just like the sides. I see many of the gasket kits they sell today, the sides are still cork, but the front & rear are a black rubber or silicone (those round 180 degree gaskets). You can imagine there is much cork residue left in the recess areas I have to remove before using these new rubber gaskets, any special tools to scrape these out? I've been using a variety of sizes of flat head screw dirvers, they seem to work pretty good but it is slow going.

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,280
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,280
Look for a scotchbright dist which goes on an angle grinder. Another option is a Norton paint remover disc. They will take the adhesive off without harming the metal.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
Thanks Carl! I have a dremel tool, hopefully they have scotchbright bits for that. Also, would it be reasonable to try and burn some of the cork residue off with my small butane torch?

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
They make the paint removal disks that fit on a hand drill as well. Might be able to make quicker work of it with a bit larger disk than a dremel will handle.
Look up 3M #7772ES


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 102
Thanks Kevin!!


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0