The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (baldeagle, Lightholder's Dad, Hotrod Lincoln, 1 invisible), 76 guests, and 6 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,018
Posts1,055,339
Members48,419
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#123779 12/28/2006 4:25 AM
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 125
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 125
I just went to a body shop today to try to find someone to put the patch panels in the cab, sandblast the cab and the rest of the truck including sheet metal and bed, and finally paint the truck. I don't have access to any of the welding, sandblasting, or painting equipment, nor do I have the experience to get the job done. I want to have the cab, bed, and sheet metal worked on and done by the time I have the frame done and ready for it. I am going to meticulously clean the frame myself with a wirebrush attachment on a handheld angle grinder, and also a small wirebrush on a drill for tight areas. The guy at the body shop said that I should just clean the frame and not worry about priming it. After everything has been cleaned, just get rid of the "live rust" then brush on black tractor paint. I don't think I will use that body shop because the guy doesn't sandblast and I want to take all my stuff to one place, but the guy gave me advice on how to do it and I was wondering if it seems logical. I guess I'll get my rearend done (4.11 to 3.55)and new bearings, get my frame, tranny, and engine done and painted, get the kingpins and spindles done and all the brake lines, shoes, drums, etc, then hopefully get my stuff back from the body shop and put it back on. Does this sound logical, or is there a better way to do it? Should I have everything painted separately, like the cab, fenders, and bed panels, then put them all back on? This seems like the best way to me because everything will get painted and there won't be any chance for overspray or some areas getting missed.
Any guidance would be appreciated
thanks

#123780 12/28/2006 6:58 AM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 339
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 339
Justin, There are not a whole lot of shops
around that want a sandblaster in a body shop because it seems that the sand will always find its
way to the spraybooth(s)...Try finding someone that
does sandblasting only to do the job for You, then if You still want that shop to take on Your restoration then thats Your decision...If You do the frame using those wire wheels, remember to use a
full face shield..I had a 1/2 inch of wire fly off the wheel and stuck straight into My eye with enough sticking out that impaled My eyelid...
They will hit You with time and material cost.
Good luck to You Justin... BB


1952 Chevy 3104 Shortbed 5-window
Remember; Politicians and diapers both need to be changed
often, and for the same reason.....
#123781 12/28/2006 9:25 AM
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 584
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 584
Justin, I think your process is logical. The best way is to shoot the pieces separately then assmeble. No overspray to worry about and you can get paint on more edges and areas that might be light or missed if painted while assembled. The downside is assembly CAN be a nightmare. It is almost impossible to reunite the pieces and assemble without something unforseen happening to the paint. I would get several friends together for an assembly party if you go this route. There is no subsitute for 3 sets of eyes and hands to protect your newly painted pieces....and even then....no drinkin! grin

I think this is the logical sequence, followed by interior. Keep us posted on the project and good luck with it!


When I yield to Him, it's amazing how peaceful and enjoyable life is meant to be.

1947 Chevy COE
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More photos
#123782 12/28/2006 4:47 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 63
B
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
B Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 63
Painting unassembled depends on the paint youre going to have sprayed....if it is a mono color with no metallic in it then you can do that and pull off a good paint job. If it is metallic paint, then you have to be a darn good painter to pull it off, and i guarantee you will notice a difference between panels still. there is just no way the painter can maintain the same spray speed, angle, and distance from each panel.


Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0