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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,362
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,362
Yep, due to hard to see 6 volt brake/turnsignal's when the sun was shinning on them I reciently changed to these. Thanks for the link tclederman! They work GREAT.

The problem is now the pilot light on the turnsignal switch doesn't work. So I'm always wondering if the turn signals are working. After many confidence inspiring checks they are, but I'd still like the pilot to blink.

Still have the incandescence bulbs in the front, no other change beyond changing the tail light bulbs. No fast flashing at all.

Any thoughts on the why question and a possible solution are welcome.

Thanks, RonR

Last edited by moparguy; 08/24/2017 12:44 PM.

RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
The original style flasher unit/can works off the current-draw by the bulbs. The LEDs draw far less current, so the normal flasher does not work properly.

There are 6v LED flashers but they are not common (and I have not tested the ones I got from Sweden/Norway (motorcycle application, I think). Some people do a kludge/work-around by wiring-in a few incandescent bulbes under the body (to produce the necessary currect draw).

I'll see if I can find a currect flasher, and will edit this later.

Maybe something like this?

Last edited by tclederman; 08/24/2017 2:36 PM. Reason: added flasher info
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,362
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,362
Thanks for the link Tim. You may well have identified the problem, low amperage draw with the rear LED's. I'd considered that possibility but since the flash rate is still normal (due to the fronts still being regular bulbs) I don't really understand why the pilot light on the flasher switch isn't working.


RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
hmmm, that flasher unit might not solve that problem

Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,214
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,214
Double check the turn sig housing is grounding good to the steering column (or where ever it's mounted). The clamp on mine occasionly needs tightened.

Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,362
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,362
Volfandt said; Double check the turn sig housing is grounding good to the steering column (or where ever it's mounted). The clamp on mine occasionly needs tightened.

I had considered that and sorta wiggled at the housing, no movement, no change. That said I'm now thinking that if I had a marginal ground all along, the reduced amperage with the LED's might not be making ground. Sounds good as I set in the recliner thinking about it. Will test the theory in the am.


RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Your suggestion that "marginal grounds" caused more problems with LEDs is exactly the situation that I have on my 1954 Chevrolet 6v Suburban. The original bulbs had gotten so dim that friends told me not to drive at night. I switched to 6v LEDs and the ones that work are much brighter than any of the original 6v bulbs. But, some of the LEDs do not iluminate, or, they are intermittent. I attribute this to bad grounds, resulting from the excellent epoxy primer and urethane top-coat paint. Bad grounds from good primer/paint.

On the 1954 pickup that is ready for finish painting, I will ream the lighting-fixture screw holes using "wire brushes/bits" made to clean screw holes. I will eliminate future rust in those holes by treating them with anti-oxidant stainless-steel grease.

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 815
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 815
A very good point Tim about the reaming the holes on "marginal grounds". I have a grounding problem and this could be the solution. Where can one find those brushes and the ss grease? Thanks, Steve

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Here are some examples of wire-brush bits

I do not remember where I got mine, and what their sizes were.

I got some for hand-reaming and some for an electric drill.

I think this is a conductive anti-ox grease?

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 815
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 815
thanks Tim.. I might check my flaps


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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